Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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BradCT
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Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by BradCT » Fri Dec 18, 2009 12:59 pm

Hi All,

Can anyone steer me to a topo/ info on climbing in the Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs area? One particular 'massif' just off the coastal road grabs my eye every time I pass it!!
I would imagine you've gotta time this one just right, otherwise I'm sure you'd be slippin and sliddin all the way up.

Any advise and direction would be appreciated!

Cheers,
Brad.

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Justin
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by Justin » Fri Dec 18, 2009 2:32 pm

Not sure about a topo, but be aware that the cliff is on private land and the land owner not keen on climbers.
If memory serves the grades are around 25/6 ish.

If the land owner doesn't scare you away, the state of the bolts might!
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

BradCT
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by BradCT » Fri Dec 18, 2009 3:24 pm

Thanx Justin,

Didn't realize that there were bolts!? Thought I'd need to place gear... prob will anyhow as I'd certainly agree on the rusty bolt theory!

I'll put on my 'nice' face when approaching the owner. Thank you for the advice.

Cheers.

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Xenomorph
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by Xenomorph » Thu May 04, 2017 1:25 pm

Justin wrote:Not sure about a topo, but be aware that the cliff is on private land and the land owner not keen on climbers.
If memory serves the grades are around 25/6 ish.

If the land owner doesn't scare you away, the state of the bolts might!
Would you know if it is the same owner?
Would you have their details.
We would be interested in re-bolting.

Cheers
Cormac

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GClamp
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by GClamp » Thu May 04, 2017 3:37 pm

From what I can see the climbing area would fall on Erf 76.

Apparently this makes up part of the Baskloof nature reserve
http://www.baskloof.co.za/history

So it would be best to contact them probably.

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MIKESCOTT
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by MIKESCOTT » Thu May 04, 2017 5:48 pm

The bolted routes referred to are all on the extreme left hand side, on I vaguely remember dark brown rock, and even more vaguely probably opened by Jeremy Colenso, but I don't have my files of that stuff any more.

More importantly, there are really good Trad routes all over the main cliff of white rock, which were written up in the UCTMSC journals in the 60's .
If you would like the scanned info from the UCT Journals that Richard Behne kindly did for me in 2003, then send me your eMail to scottmj@telkomsa.net

The Central route is a classic, but used to be out of bounds when the Fitzpatrick ornithologists were watching the Eagle Chicks as a nest had been built on the last pitch that climbers had to avoid.

Now, as mentioned in the posts above, you need permission from the owners of the private reserve, and it was not forthcoming in the past.
Maybe contact Andy de Klerk who lives nearby as he may know how access can be arranged.
Good luck.
Mike Scott

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Nic Le Maitre
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by Nic Le Maitre » Thu May 04, 2017 7:51 pm

The UCT MSC journals are now all available online:

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/UCT_MSC_Journals
Happy climbing
Nic

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The Jimmy
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by The Jimmy » Thu May 04, 2017 9:55 pm

1965 journal, page 40

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robertbreyer
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by robertbreyer » Fri May 05, 2017 6:49 am

Hi Robert,

Here's the beta:

Tienie opened 5 bolted routes on the left side of the crag between 1997 and 1999.
Starting from the left - 23, 24, 25, 27, 25. The 23 is really good. The 27 has a cutter finger lock, the others are good. All are great, pumpy, endurance routes, but ALL OF THE BOLTS ARE SUSPECT. We climbed there about 3 months ago and it was like trad climbing on bolts, very, very scary on 20 year old rusted bolts. CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK!

The crag is on private land - Baskloof Nature Reserve - owned and administered by Ivan and Danielle Harris
Ivan Harris: 082 445 3241
Danielle Harris: 082 680 6188
Email Address: harris@mistycliffs.co.za
They need to be contacted for permission before going there to climb. Please respect this and call them before going there.

On the right hand side of the crag there is a section of white rock. Several routes were opened there by Tarquin Holt and Tienie in the 1980's. They are all trad and are of mixed quality, OK routes but nothing to write home about. I'm not sure if they were ever written up.

The Harris's are not that keen on route development at Misty Cliffs for conservation reasons, and the crag looks better than it actually is. It gets really schlorky. There's better climbing elsewhere to be honest, so rather come to The Far South when the surf is good or for some trail running or when the wind is SW for some really good paragliding above the cliffs rather than climbing on them.

Thanks

AdK

GlennM
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Re: Scarborough/ Misty Cliffs climbing

Post by GlennM » Fri May 05, 2017 11:04 am

I know that the Harris' were attempting to sell Baskloof recently. It may be worth finding out who the new owners are if the land has sold and renewing attempts to negotiate access

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