Climb ZA

Ok.....so any way. I'm a young climber from Cape Town. And I'm pretty new to Trad. Done like a 15 or to.Next weekend I'm planning to do Jacob's for the first time. I climb like 25 on average, so it should be well within my range. What I just wanted to know is....are there any hanging stances on Jacob's? Cos those are the only things that really freak me out. Some advice would be nice

Thanks

Yes there is a hanging stance on Jacobs, you can traverse off to the left to avoid it. however, I strongly advise against this as its much better and (a lot) safer to use the hanging stance.

About the stance: its a massive bollard (you could tie a container ship to the thing). If you ever wanted to get used to hanging belays, this is the place to do it.
Take two 120cm slings to lasso the bollard (the hanging stance is before the traverse on the corner).

On a side note - Realistically, you're being silly about the hanging stance freaking you out. Just think, everyone does it...
Mind over matter stuff.

Enjoy the route

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justin@climbing.co.za

So its a solid stance? thats all good then. Thanks

I find the best way to get someone into trusting hanging stances is to recommend the route and neglect to mention the hanging stance. They tend to survive and sometimes even forgive you, at least I think they do...

I agree with you on that Shorti

Pea1nut: Post a pic of you on the hanging stance!?

The other option is to solo the route... thereby avoiding any hanging stances

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justin@climbing.co.za

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the sympathy:) On-sight solo....? Maybe One more thing...never set up a stance on a bollard, is it best to put two or more slings on?

Two slings would be 200% adequate, if that bollard were to come off... the rest of the mountain is going with it!!
Stancing at the bollard is very simply, just drop the sling over the bollard (it will be clear what to do when you arrive).

Strictly speaking, from a backup point of view you want another piece of gear that is seperate to the sling. So for redundancy you would place a piece of gear elsewhere (seperate and away from the bollard) - you will find a cam placement no problem.

Although the sling and bollard are 100% - A wild / crazy example would be:
A tourist drops a glass bottle/lunch knife from above and cuts your sling - because you are tied into another (seperate) anchor, you live to climb another day.

The rule being: Always be tied into at least two seperate points

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Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

make it three. and get yourself a trango alpine equaliser - makes life at the belay stance so much easier.

Of course with the Trango you are effectively clipped into one continous loop of sling with the problem that if the sling fails you will no longer be clipped into anything at all...

You can overcome this by clovehitching the sling to the anchors

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Happy climbing
Nic

yeah just make sure you keep ur pocket scissors / biltong knife / mini blow torch / cigar / potato peeler away from the equaliser. otherwise it works like a bomb

It's a great hanging belay that one...

but I agree with the others never trust one point if you can help it. My first fall was on a 16 at lower silvermine. I held onto a jug the size of a softball which liberated itself from the mountain to which it was attached.

Never trust one bollard no matter how good it looks. FYI here is the bollard on Jacobs ladder:

I LIKE BIG... BOLTS AND I CANNOT LIE Just kidding