Outback Crag access

For the posting and discussion of Access Issues and Closures for Areas around South Africa.
Jan Viljoen
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Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 1:15 am
Real Name: Jan Viljoen
Location: Ladismith WC
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Outback Crag access

Postby Jan Viljoen » Wed Sep 02, 2009 7:53 pm

Just a note to those planning to visit the Outback Crag (between Ladismith and Montagu):

The crag itself is on the property of Mr Saaiman, but the area next to the road is on the property of Mr Terlien. The property borders are only marked on maps, but in short you park and start off on Mr Terlien's property, and then move onto Mr Saaiman's as you approach the crag. Please contact both parties beforehand in order to keep up good relationships to what has been described as "possibly the best crag in the Western Cape".

Contact numbers:
Mr Bart Saaiman, or his son, Boemie: 028 5511 154
Mr Roy Terlien: 073 202 7950

Regards
Jan Viljoen

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Gustav
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2005 3:49 pm
Location: Waterval Boven

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby Gustav » Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:47 pm

Have you got a pic of these crags? I am burning to do a road trip, should get leave somewhere in 2011 again :bom:

On a different note: my dad taught my son a sweet little rhyme that I thought you may (or may not) find entertaining...

Jan Viljoen poef in sy skoen,
vee sy boude af met 'n suurlemoen!
Gustav
Roc 'n Rope Adventures
Waterval Boven
013 257 0363
climb @t rocrope dot com

Jan Viljoen
Posts: 51
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 1:15 am
Real Name: Jan Viljoen
Location: Ladismith WC
Contact:

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby Jan Viljoen » Thu Sep 03, 2009 5:35 pm

Hi there Gustuv

As requested, below is a pic of the Outback Crag. Located on your way between Montagu and Oudtshoorn one doesn't have an excuse for missing it. Unless your Amathophobia prevents you from driving on a dirt road...

Another (smaller) crag is close to Mr Saaiman's house and has lots of potential as well, but access and bolting haven't been discussed yet.

Route descriptions for the Outback Crag can be found in Western Cape Rock (Tony Lourens) or Western Cape Crags (Guy Holwill).

Cheers
Jan Viljoen

PS: Dankie Gustuv vir die oulike rympie, ek probeer dink nog aan iets wat met Gustuv rym...
Attachments
Outback.JPG
Outback.JPG (143.86 KiB) Viewed 2408 times

Marshall1
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 8:38 am
Real Name: Derek Marshall
Location: Port Elizabeth

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby Marshall1 » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:17 pm

Hey Jan

Is this where you were bolting a while back? Tell us more.

Jan Viljoen
Posts: 51
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 1:15 am
Real Name: Jan Viljoen
Location: Ladismith WC
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Re: Outback Crag access

Postby Jan Viljoen » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:00 pm

Hi Derek

No sorry, the crag where George Nel and I have started bolting recently is closer to Ladismith, I'm unfortunately not allowed to spill the beans at this stage since public access hasn't been aranged with the landowner. It's in a small kloof called Boontjieskloof and you can drive a bakkie to within a minute's walking from the first faces, making it ideal for us locals to get a quick workout.

The above mentioned Outback Crag is actually in another league. Back in the late 90's when I started climbing I noticed this crag on visits to the Saaimans (land owners). We did one or two trad routes on the main face, but mostly it's smooth rock with pockets and grooves - more suited for sport climbing. Amongst others Richard Behne and Guy Holwill contacted me for local info and started bolting. Currently grades are mostly in the 24 - 30? range, with still lots of potential for new routes.

It's situated 80km from Montagu via the Ouberg Pass on gravel road, or 50 km from Ladismith (tar & gravel). The Saaimans are considering putting up a basic camping facility in the future for climbers who'd like to stay over.

Ladismith's main climbing venue will always be Towerkop, but the area has lots of kloofs and hidden spots where numerous unclimbed faces still exist. It's just a matter of discovering, arranging access and developing it.

Keep well!
Jan
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Bolting at Boontjieskloof
BK1.JPG (176.67 KiB) Viewed 2380 times
bk2.JPG
George Nel taking a test run at a Boontjieskloof line before bolting
bk2.JPG (182.36 KiB) Viewed 2381 times

MarkM
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Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 5:39 pm
Location: JHB

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby MarkM » Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:31 am

Wow, the Outback looks awesome.

Holwill has mentioned previously that it is an awesome spot with loads of potential.
I thought there were some access issues? I guess they have been resolved then?
Open hand, open mind...

MarkM
Posts: 304
Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 5:39 pm
Location: JHB

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby MarkM » Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:35 am

Just out of interest, how big is the main wall and do the established routes go all the way to the top?
Open hand, open mind...

andrew p
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Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:38 pm

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby andrew p » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:55 am

Hi Jan, thanks for the info and pics. I am so psyched to go have a look and maybe to develop some new routes. Of course want to be fully within the arrangements that have been made. I will be down in Oudtshoon from Wednesday nest week for a week. MAybe we can meet up and go to Outback for a day? Any day would be fine by me. I have a lot of time on my hands, a drill, plenty of bolts and a burning desire to open world class sport routes so maybe I can be of service. You can email me on pedley.andrew@gmail.com. I look forward to hearing from you. Andrew

george nel
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:12 am

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby george nel » Fri Sep 04, 2009 4:12 pm

Watch this space for awsome new crag,will post few photos,Outback is a "lammetjie" compared to this beauty.Walk in a bit more than what sport climbers are use to,but hey,what the hell!

Jan Viljoen
Posts: 51
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 1:15 am
Real Name: Jan Viljoen
Location: Ladismith WC
Contact:

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby Jan Viljoen » Fri Sep 04, 2009 5:37 pm

Mark: I'm not sure about the exact height of the main wall, the routes vary in length but I think most of the longer ones were probably stopped at around 25m with still some distance to go. From left to right the crag is propably 100m+?

Andrew: I'll send you an email just now, will be glad to meet up and show you guys around.

George: Are you talking about that crag in Opsoek? Or no, not the Wall of Wishf...

Guy
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:48 pm
Real Name: Guy Holwill
Location: Cape Town

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby Guy » Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:49 pm

About a month ago Ant Hall contacted me an asked about the suitablity of this crag for the 2010 Rock and Road. It's obviously perfect if access can be sorted, which is what Ant is busy doing.

I'll stick by my comments in my last guidebook (2000) that this is one of the best crags in the Western Cape and SA.

It will be even more perfect if people didn't go there for the next 12 months...

Please speak to Ant before going there now.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

ant
Posts: 262
Joined: Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:09 pm

Re: Outback Crag access

Postby ant » Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:26 pm

Hi Everyone,

Executive summary: Please take it easy on the Outback for the next 3 - 12 months.

Gosia and I have agreed to arrange for the Western Cape to host the Rock and Road 2010.
We'd like to not start pre-empting the form that it will take - we are likely to have a more concrete idea in the next 2 - 4 months. We'd love lots of help on various sub-projects relating to the R&R - watch this space!

For the time being on this subject:

Indeed, the Outback has been identified as a candidate for a finals venue.
This is certainly not set in stone. ('scus the pun)
I believe that there have been access issues in the past - I don't have details.
For the time being, the protocol for visiting the crag is exactly as Jan describes in the first post in this thread. It is not an entirely sustainable option, because land-owners will tire of regular phone calls, and let's face it, until we have a well thought-out protocol that works for both the land-owners, and climbers, we run the risk of someone upsetting the balance, through either their behaviour or sheer coincidence.

Therefore we'd like to ask the following:
1) PLEASE TREAD VERY LIGHTLY in the immediate future
We will endeavour to come up with a long-term protocol soon.

2) It's a free world, but perhaps we could ask climbers who should or could participate in the R&R 2010 to hold onto their hats for a year and refrain using this crag. This means that all the routes really can be brand -new, and the playing field remains nice and level - therefore an exciting competition.

3) Climbers who are going to be developing this or other venues in the next year - please keep the two of us in the loop and work with us. We like to think this is for the common good.
(Yes Andrew Pedley is already on board with us on this)

Rock on,

Ant & Gosia

antventure@yahoo.com
082 290 2937


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