UNSAFE Belay Carabiner through loop in waist belt n leg loop

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Wayne73
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 1:58 pm
Location: Cape Town

Re: UNSAFE Belay Carabiner through loop in waist belt n leg loop

Postby Wayne73 » Fri Jun 05, 2009 2:08 pm

The fact that this is even (still) been debated is beyond belief. Why would any of you/us risk someones life because we don't use gear properly, use it as it is intended. Would you like to explain why you killed someone because you think you know better than the manufacturers.

The helmet issue is your own life; so if I don't wear one cause I'm a stupid prat thats my fault if I get killed. But just get someone to drop a draw on your head from a meter up and then think about not wearing a helmet at the sports crag :eye: . Disclamer - I am not responsible if said draw does any damange to you, you will attempt this at your own risk.

Be responsible to yourself and others.
Fat men are harder to kidnap

Larry Thomas
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2009 7:26 pm
Real Name: Larry Thomas
Location: Beverley

Re: UNSAFE Belay Carabiner through loop in waist belt n leg loop

Postby Larry Thomas » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:53 pm

Again I come back to the same thought....

LESS STUPID PEOPLE IN THE WORLD

If people want to continue with this, it's their funeral.

As for helmets, I not only wear one, I quite like my belayer wearing one.
If I drop a biner on my belayer and kill them,
WHO THE HELL IS GOING TO LOWER ME DOWN???

BAbycoat
Posts: 163
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm

Re: UNSAFE Belay Carabiner through loop in waist belt n leg loop

Postby BAbycoat » Fri Jun 05, 2009 5:16 pm

1. Three-way loading. Not a problem**.

2. Cross-loading. Less likely when using the belay loop, but still possible.

Using the belay loop is probably better, but not infallable.

** Suppose that three-way loading was possible. The forces pulling the 'biner apart are generated by your body alone. I figure that the body will break well before the biner breaks.

The tradgirl page that Mediocre mentioned makes a worthwhile read. Catch it here.

PS - let's keep this focused on the issues, not the personalities.

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noki
Posts: 61
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 10:33 pm
Location: Bloemfontein

Re: UNSAFE Belay Carabiner through loop in waist belt n leg loop

Postby noki » Sat Jun 13, 2009 5:47 pm

Hi

Sorry, I am very late to this topic?
Was that my course where you were warned not to atach like that?

Yes, I agree tha tthe tri-axial loading in this configuration is not the main problem, but by the same token, it is never, udner any circumstances, a good idea to clip into the waist belt and leg loops.
Check this website:
http://www.theuiaa.org/act_safety.html, and then doanload this pdf article:
Karabiner breaking when using a figure-of-eight

hell, download and read them all, you will be glad you did.

That's my bit.

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XMod
Posts: 884
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:38 pm
Real Name: Greg Hart

Re: UNSAFE Belay Carabiner through loop in waist belt n leg loop

Postby XMod » Sat Jun 13, 2009 6:11 pm

:smurfin: :smurf: :brilsmurf :bigsmurf: :colors: :geek: :nemo: :fish: :bounce: :albino: :cyclopsan :clown: :alien:

gear talk= :thumbdown


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