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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:52 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 698
We climbed 2 nice and easy routes in Cederberg Kloof that we can't find in the RD, but they are so obvious that they surely must have been climbed before. I'll describe them and would appreciate it if someone has info about them.

The first one is a groove just to the right of Skelda. This is on the buttress downstream of Terminator and Lunch. It is quite obvious as it is the first line you'll see when you walk in from the camp site. At the top of the groove is a smooth and pretty much unprotectable little headwall which is surprisingly smooth. We climbed the arrete to the right to the top.

The second route is the chimney on the other side of Calisto Crack. In other words the other side of the crack that separates the Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms face from the buttress. It is short, easy, good pro and rather enjoyable. You can either end the climb on the walk off of Difficult Shapes or you can climb to the top (top-out of Dom's Party) on slopy friction holds with a good horizontal crack halfway up. In the chimney is a big wedged rock and you can either climb around it on the outside or if you like spelunking you can try squeeze through on the other side. I got my chest through then decided it wasn't going to be fun to try get my hips through and back down again to climb round the outside.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:37 am 
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Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 7:36 pm
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Hey Shorti

Looks like we got 2 first ascents!!! :thumleft:
Not really holding my breath as those route were quite obvious and I'll be surprised of no-one has climbed them before. Perhaps Neil Margetts or Andrew Porter has some info...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 7:55 pm
Posts: 55
Hello Shorti

The route near Skelda is new to me.

The one up the chimney has been climbed before. I have soloed it a number of times to put up top ropes on DSPR and have also down climbed it after successfully climbing DSPR. I have never bothered to write it up, but if you want to do so, I will at least credit you in the next guide.

Cheers
Andrew


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 9:35 am 
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Soloed it eh? Well I used nuts, and cams, and even 2 ropes! So what do you think about that, huh? :lol:

Thanks for the info Andrew, and no I'm not FA hunting :drunken:


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