Congratulations Paarl Rock Routes

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johna

Congratulations Paarl Rock Routes

Postby johna » Mon Sep 19, 2005 3:05 pm

This is just a short message to congratulate those who opened the new routes on Paarl. I recently went along to vist some of my old routes. While I was there we completed the intro routes near the main car park and then went onto do Little Dutch boy etc. Mike, Rex and Patrick were on Sands of Time wall across the valley fro us. What a sight as I watched them moving up the grey pitches. Brilliant stuff - can't wait for my next vist. Well done guys

John Alexander

Stu
Posts: 572
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Postby Stu » Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:55 pm

Much appreciate it man. Glad to know that people are actually out there climbing them. Give Casulaties of War a go, a nice challenge.John, there are holes drilled (retro-bolted) for most of top pitches of Wonderland. Ran out of bolts so if you feel a touch of nostalgia sometime, whack in some bolts to complete the retrobolting.

Iain
Posts: 113
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 3:23 pm
Location: Paarl

Postby Iain » Tue Sep 20, 2005 6:53 am

Hi there

This past Sunday I counted 27 climbers on Gordon & britanis rock.

I saw some top anchors due east of the trig beacon on Britania - what gives there?

A little more worrisome is the semi-fixed line blowing around on Prelude to the Wastelands. If you're bolting there, please remove your lines between sessions - the park service guys view fixed lines left behind as litter :shock:

Thanks
Iain

Stu
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Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Postby Stu » Tue Sep 20, 2005 7:21 am

Josef has put up some lines heading up the Weasel Wall. Unfortunately sometimes you simply run out of time when bolting and to run back up to the top and remove them would require too much time and effort. Knowing that Iwould be back the next though I wasn't too worried and I'm sure the same goes for the Ranger.

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Rastaman
Posts: 214
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 9:06 am
Location: Cape Town

Great Routes

Postby Rastaman » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:49 am

Paarl is now an awesome place to climb and will probally get even better.
Thanks to all involved for the effort, Nice One!
:D

Scott

Postby Scott » Tue Sep 20, 2005 10:12 am

Iain, Dude you quite quick to start dising people! Maybe next time find out the facts? Have you ever got your rope stuck and not been able to retreive it? It happens at Paarl because of the large flakes that snag the rope when it's pulled down. Ever bolted a multi-pitch route at PAARL? Not the most simple of operations I will tell you! We know it's not a good idea to leave a rope up there but it can be a frustrating and time consuming job so please... Peace out 8)

Iain
Posts: 113
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 3:23 pm
Location: Paarl

Postby Iain » Wed Sep 21, 2005 6:44 am

Hi Scott,

No dissing intended. The routes are cool - Just want the ranger to stay cool as well. I recall that access was touchy during the early 90's with a bolt ban in place.
Then there was the incident of a guy getting arrested for bolting on Lions Head granite about the same time...
I'm chilled, keep up the excellent work.
Iain
Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso

Stu
Posts: 572
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:13 pm

Postby Stu » Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:49 am

Speaking of a bolt ban, just to let evreyone know that there is now officially no more bolting allowed fro now at Paarl. The new boltson the Parklife Wall have upset some 'greenies'. The ranger wants some kind of official channels to work through so now everyone has to go through the MCSA. Out of sight , out of mind, will go a long way in seeing new routes being allowed on Paarl again. If anyone has the time, spraypaint some bolts, like on Belly Button, etc. The routes on Parklife wall are being taken care off. If people see me busy with a new route there, I have been busy on that for a while.

johna

Bolter arrested on Lion's Head

Postby johna » Mon Oct 17, 2005 2:12 pm

Hi

I read there was mention of a climber being arrested at Lion's Head granite when caught bolting in the 90's. Well the story has a funny side to it. Neal and I were bolting a new line on the granite. We had assumed at the time that MCSA and Cape Conservationhad sorted out the bolting issue and that it was fair game to bolt on the granite. So in the middle of the day on a Saturady we proceeeded to drill to our heart's content in full view of all and sundry. I had just finished the route and was abseiling down to Neal when the rangers pounced. Neal as the MCSA committee member was taken away to the police. The problem was that the police could not take any finger prints as all his tips were trashed from climbing! The police were frustrated and at the end of day after much muttering Neal and i got off with a warning. the bolts had to be chopped. Pity it was a good line.


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