Easy trad routes?

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Wurgle
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:44 am

Easy trad routes?

Postby Wurgle » Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:22 pm

Hi guy's. Getting back into climbing after a long break and been doing the sport thing to try and get the fitness levels up to get back into trad. Question. Can I get recommendations as to easy-ish single pitch trad routes around Cape Town? Have previously done Frasers, Staircase,Arrow final, one of the Muizenburg routes(forget the name) to name a few. Lions Head? My partners are new to the sport but are keen to try something simple and not too exposed.
Would appreciate any input.
Thanks, Roy

Paul Goddard
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Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby Paul Goddard » Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:17 pm

Howdy Wurgle

Get Dave Mecer's(i think that's his name) guidebook on Lion's Head. It's brand new.

Turn to the Geo-Cache section in the book and Viola, your prayer's have been answered. Everything from grade 12 and up, and lots of it, in a non-intimidating beautiful environment. Great quality rock and some proper 4 and five star routes. Basically a one pitch crag for trad where the belayer can see the leader all the time. Once at the top you walk easily to your left where there is a descent gully equipped with a knotted rope courtesy of Errol. Great after 2pm as its in the shade. Its protected by the howling SE and an easy walk in too.
what more can i say ? But buy the book 1st it makes things a lot easier. :thumright

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bigbatman
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Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby bigbatman » Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:21 am

Yeah, Lions Head is great. Some really nice single pitch trad climbs. Just a beautiful setting too!

The Lions Head book is very good. It's a must.

:pirat:
CLIMBING ROCKS! --- /\/¯¯¯¯¯\/\

Wurgle
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:44 am

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby Wurgle » Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:22 am

Thanks for the info. Lions Head it is. Came short there once on the granite. I presume City rock would have the book?

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XMod
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Real Name: Greg Hart

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby XMod » Fri Feb 20, 2009 8:34 am

Hi Wurgle, if you dont mind travelling a bit Hellfire in Dutoits Kloof has a huge selection of trad from grade8 upwards including many short 10-12m four and five star routes. Walk in varies from 35 min - 60 min. Our guidebook is due out in April but if you need info before then just drop me a PM on this site.

Wurgle
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:44 am

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby Wurgle » Fri Feb 20, 2009 7:42 pm

Hey thanks XMOD, but for some reason I feel a little intimidated by Hellfire. Took a walk up there once to suss it out and it does look awesome. I'll start off with LH. and take it from there. Look forward to the book tho'.

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XMod
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Real Name: Greg Hart

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby XMod » Fri Feb 20, 2009 8:39 pm

Hi Wurgle, dont be put off by the tall impending crags that greet you as you arrive at Hellfire, theres loads more to it that is not immediately apparent. There is an upper level of crags that are all 10-15m high which offer excellent climbing on very non-intimidating outcrops with a fantastic scenic vista to boot. The only draw back is a 1hour walk.

Alex B-S
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Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 5:55 am

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby Alex B-S » Sat Feb 21, 2009 1:16 pm

There are 2 really nice route's on Elsies Peak, Fish Hoek, viz, Amphitheatre Wall and Suspension Face (5 star). They are in the route book "Peninsula Rock". If you cannot get hold of a copy, contact me on bondsmith@telkomsa.net and I will scan and email the R/D's to you.

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robertbreyer
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Real Name: CityROCK

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby robertbreyer » Sat Feb 21, 2009 2:45 pm

Yes we got the David Mercer Lions Head guide book in stock. (R140).
Also worth considering: "Peninsula Rock", written by Richard Behne and Tony Lourens (R75). The book covers all the Muizenberg and Elsies Peak climbing which is in my opinion better quality at the same grade. Advantage of Lions Head is the location (of course depends where in CT you are); Lions Head can also be very sheltered even with gale-force SE everywhere else in Cape Town. Last but not least: The new Wolfberg Guide book. Dozens of teen trad climbs in the Cederberg. Superb climbing, but it's of course a weekend outing (R130).
- Robert from CityROCK.

Wurgle
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:44 am

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby Wurgle » Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:46 pm

Hey Alex and Robert. Many thanks for taking the time. Rob, I will pop in during the week to get a copy, and Alex many thanks for the kind offer, but that book I've got. Palms already getting sweaty! Never really had a good look at Elsies. Thanks for the tip. :thumleft:
P.s. Is it just me or is this forum incredibly slow today?

Wurgle
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:44 am

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby Wurgle » Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:38 am

Went up yesterday, but in a classic scenario, partner thought I bought the route book, and I thought she'd bought it. Bugger, so, knowing my limitations, turned out to be a recce.
It was like a railway station up there, but what staggered me was the amount of dogsh1t on the paths. I mean if you take a dog (or 2, or 3) you take some baggies up as well? I know that the crap is no good for the vegetation either, as it does not bio-degrade beneficially due to the processed food the dogs eat. :(

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henkg
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Real Name: Henk Grobler

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby henkg » Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:51 am

I'm getting lost in the route guides (Even before I leave the armchair!). Terms like "recess", "break" "rib" "nose" etc. Any advice?
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens

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henkg
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Real Name: Henk Grobler

Re: Easy trad routes?

Postby henkg » Mon Dec 28, 2009 10:43 am

You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens


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