Whats an aid route

If you are a beginner climber and want to ask other climbers any questions - then this is the place to ask.
JonoJ
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby JonoJ » Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:10 pm

SNORT wrote:

Treatment, believe it or not, is Botox to shrink the little *ucker. Going this afternoon. But it takes two weeks to work so no respite for you'all!!!!



Snort's got botox in his buttocks, botox in his buttocks!! hahaha :lol:

Hoped you're not bummed out for too long!

Adrian20971
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Adrian20971 » Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:55 pm

And to think that all this "mine is bigger than yours" debate was started by Viruk who just wanted to know what Aid climbing was.

Climbing rocks -the end

Adrian20971
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Adrian20971 » Wed Jan 28, 2009 3:56 pm

Snort's got botox in his buttocks, botox in his buttocks!! hahaha :lol:
Hoped you're not bummed out for too long!



:lol: Corny as hell, but got me laughing anyway

brolloks
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby brolloks » Wed Jan 28, 2009 4:31 pm

hahaha guy, touchè on the mark twain quote...

8)
you have one mouth, two ears. listen more...

shorti
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby shorti » Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:30 pm

Snort has a pain in the ass :lol:

nosmo
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby nosmo » Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:13 pm


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bigbatman
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby bigbatman » Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:29 pm

Shame Snort! What a bummer :cyclops:
CLIMBING ROCKS! --- /\/¯¯¯¯¯\/\

SNORT
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Botox

Postby SNORT » Fri Jan 30, 2009 8:43 am

Here is a bit of Trivia for you to add to your list of useless information. What does Botox cost per kg. It is the most expensive product by weight known to man. And also the most potent chemical affecting humans.

So here's the math. 100nanogram cost R2600. Work it out...

Oh, as for the relevance to aid climbing...... I need all the aid I can get, Botox, wine, whisky. Brufen....

On the big walls in Yosemite it seems to be pre-requisite to be a dope head to climb an aid route....

JonoJ
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Re: Botox

Postby JonoJ » Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:44 am

SNORT wrote:..... I need all the aid I can get, Botox, wine, whisky. Brufen....



This is starting to sound like an episode of Absolutely Fabulous! :roll: :lol:

Lourens
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Lourens » Sun Feb 01, 2009 12:06 am

Hi Jono,i didnt realise that there are still people alive and who knows,maybe even coherent, that remembers(or survived)Ab Fab! :drunken:

Lourens

Iain
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Iain » Sun Feb 01, 2009 7:50 am

To be able to fully understand the nuances of Guy's rant about aid climbing and aid climbers, one should remember that...

Back in the days before bonds, jobs, carbon footprints, botox, viagra, etc there appeared a guidebook in Cape Town. It featured an aid route called Oceans of Beer. You'll never guess who opened it...

Personally, I think all climbers should try bouldering, sport, trad and aid at least once - irrespective of your climbing preference.
Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso

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Justin
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Justin » Sun Feb 01, 2009 1:55 pm

Not forgetting Guy's attempt at aiding up Fernwood Face... (was this before or after Oceans of Beer I wonder)

The story I heard, is that Guy lugged a whole lot of aid gear up to the base (the bush bash to the bottom is apparently epic all by itself), racked up, put a nut in, stood up on it... the nut blew (Guy hit the deck I suppose), he then packed up and went homeward down the hill :salut:

So either Guy didn't have enough substance or is bad at aiding :P
(Thanks for all the Areas, Sport routes and boulder problems you've opened Guy)

Below: Donovan Burls & marijius smigelski on the First Free Ascent of Fernwood Face, Newlands - Cape Town (2004 I think)
Attachments
fernwood_face.jpg
Donovan Burls & marijius smigelski on the First Ascent of Fernwood Face, Newlands - Cape Town
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Iain
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Iain » Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:25 pm

Snort, wishing you a speedy recovery.

But I'm stuck with the mental immage of a Botox party with Snort's bum lined up next to Helen Zille's face... :shock:
Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso

Guy
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Guy » Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:04 am

Guilty on all charges. I opened Oceans of Beer and the roof that was later called Gecko Blaster at Peers Cave (I called it Phuque), while I had a finger injury and couldn't do any proper climbing. Gecko Blaster has bongs in an expanding flake in a roof and OoB has rurps in a very thin seam a roof. So whilst neither of these routes are very big and impressive - both could result in a ground fall.

I attempted Fernwood Precipice the following year shortly after John Orrock and I had aided a new route the Sentinel in Hout Bay.

I completely stand by my comments that aiding is something that can be done by anyone with very little climbing ability.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

SNORT
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby SNORT » Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:25 am

Guy, climbing can be done by anyone without much ability. It's a question of how you measure the quality or difficulty of it. You can perhaps state that to aid an ostensibly "hard" aid route is attainable by anyone and as such has an end-point that would involve serious injury or death. Whereas the difficulty of rock climbing is open-ended.

Perhaps difficult aid climbing should rather be compared to solo climbing if the ultimate end-point is "death". Any one can solo-climb up to a point and then they would also fall and die. . Anyone can aid climb with less and less fixation to the rock and then they also would fall and die.Now anyone with or without ability can do that in both endeavours

The argument is so esoteric that it actually defies conclusion. Most people can do most anything - it's a question of how efficient they are and how little damage they do and so on.

Some people can practise aiding their whole lives, but as with climbing they will be less slick, less efficient, less elegant and more destructive than others.

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XMod
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby XMod » Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:26 am

Guy your original comment was quite accurate. Aid climbing is something done by people who cant climb but like getting high anyway. Bunch of misguided miners if you ask me!

Guy
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Guy » Mon Feb 02, 2009 12:02 pm

Before someone gets overexcited, we are talking about climbing rocks. In the greater scheme of things, this really is not important.

However, let me clarify my views. As far as I know, Aiding is the only sub-sport of climbing where you can become world class within a year or two af starting the sport. Therefore, it requires the least talent, least training etc of all the climbing sports.

That's all.
There's no point being pessimistic, because it probably won't work

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Viruk
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Viruk » Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:55 pm

Wow, looks like I have opened up a can of worms here :shock:

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bigbatman
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby bigbatman » Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:09 pm

I know! It's funny.

Just Climb!

:P
CLIMBING ROCKS! --- /\/¯¯¯¯¯\/\

David Vallet
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby David Vallet » Wed Feb 11, 2009 12:37 am

I don't know if Aid climbing is the only sub-sport of climbing that one can become world class within a year or two, we live in an age were 14 year old girls are sport climbing 8a+ .

I think that it is rather bad form to be-little a climbing dicipline, like that.
I think aid climbing takes a particular talent and lots of training.

There's alot of equipment involved, all of which you should know how to use,
and be able to use it effectively, efficiently, and safely.
There are systems you need to understand, and be able to put together in an organised fashion. As well as logistics that need to be worked out, and arranged properly.

I think the Idea of a dirt bag aid climber tripping on acid, whilst drunk, a little out of sink.
so, for viruk :

Viruk, Aid Climbing is a form of ascending a rock wall/Cliff face, with the use of equipment to 'aid' in the ascent.
Generally aid climbing is not done on single pitch crags, like peers cave.
This style of mountaineering is usually used on Multi-Day ascents, were there are sometimes no bivvy Ledges.
Often, one can free certain parts of the route, and harder sections are "Aided".
If you are a sport climber, and you pull up on a quick draw, you are in essence "aiding", some people call that "french free" as it is aid climbing, without the initial intent. I.E. you are not using etriates, which are big slings with leg loops, that can be quite precarious balance in. Stretching to placing a delicate wire that will not fail, standing in the top loops, whilst trying not to swing too much, least you pop the sky hook, (which is another devise) can be quite strenuous too.
Once the first climber aids to the belay station, He then needs to start hauling.
A good knowledge of hauling systems, should be helpful in raising the large haul bag, filled with your psychodelics, booze, maybe water, food and a sleeping bag. you want to get it right, if you smash the bag, you could loose or break something you need, if it gets caught, that'll slow you down.
(you want to be efficient, because your supplies are for a limited time).
The second (belayer), will then Climb the rope that you have fixed to the anchor,
he should also be a little savvy, especially with traverses, when you don't want to leave gear behind, and /or take a huge pendulim, and when i say he should be savvy, the first climber needs to be too. In how he protects the seconds rope, remember this rope is going to be loaded, almost all of the time.
Once the second has arrived, there's a change over and it all begins again, untill you've reached the designated 'end of the day'.
Then you can settle in for the evening, have a glass of wine.

The thing that can appeal about aid climbing is the problem solving,
your turning the vertical world into home for a little while, and gravity presents some challenges.
You need to think about what your doing, i.e. if you clip the haul bag into the anchor, how are you going to get it off the anchor again ? You're not picking up 80 kg's with one hand...
You need to be efficient with rope work, with gear, with everything or you're not going to get very far.
It's slow going, as it is.

If aid climbing really required so little talent and training, people wouldn't carry all thier sh"t up to places like Fernwood Face and then turn around, Beaten.

nosmo
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby nosmo » Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:25 pm

Andy Kirkpatrick writes about pitch 13 and 14 of the Reticent wall, Yosemite. If your palms don't get slightly sweaty while reading this, I suspect you're dead...
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08f/wfeature-psycho-vertical-kirkpatrick

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Justin
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby Justin » Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:18 pm

Nice article
Be sure to give Andy's website a once over - andy-kirkpatrick.com


"Hard aid is like defusing a time bomb" - Eric Kohl (I think)
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XMod
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Re: Whats an aid route

Postby XMod » Fri Feb 13, 2009 3:57 pm

YAAAAAWN! Safe and free is the way to be!


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