Looking for advice on Ropes for Trad

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fanta
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Looking for advice on Ropes for Trad

Postby fanta » Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:26 pm

I am looking to buy two new ropes for trad climbing, and I’m not sure which way I want to go… Do I get another two 9mm half ropes like I had before? Or do I try something different, because I never really felt quite sure or comfortable about falling on only one half rope (as I have been in this situation many times before)… and if I did take such a winger how would the rope’s life be affected? So lately I’ve been pondering on the idea of using two Jokers as a double rope system. It’s not as though I need double up for a sport rope, as I already have one that doesn’t get used that often as it is.
Do you guys think using two Jokers is an overkill???

Hector

Postby Hector » Fri Sep 09, 2005 2:18 pm

Hell yeah 2 jokers is overkill. With trad you seldom fall only on one rope anyway, usually one will catch you initially, and then the other will catch a bit lower down. The whole point of using double ropes (apart from reducing rope drag) is to reduce impact on your placements. Thin ropes stretch more and slip more thru' the belay device, meaning you slow down over a longer peiod and exert less impulsive force on your gear. If anything, I would go thinner. I've climbed on a pair of Beal cobras (8.6mm) for the last few years and have been impressed. I've taken many big whippers and they're still in reasonable condition. And I weigh 95 kilo's, so I really fall hard! I was dubious about beal's new 8mm ropes unil I climbed on them recently. They're really awesome. U just need to make sure your belayer is using a small device, eg DMM bug or buggette. You'll definately feel the difference with rope drag when using thinner ropes.

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fanta
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Postby fanta » Mon Sep 12, 2005 7:20 am

Hey Hector How was castle gorge?

I hear what you say about impact force and rope drag and just the plain weight of carrying ropes to crags etc. But it just feels creepy plummeting from the heavens with only one pisswilly 9mil cord to catch you :shock:
Just this weekend I was opening a route, (turns out it was one of your favorites; off-width, I hope you get to try it some time). Being that type of crack, gear was sparse and it meant long lead-outs. I was soon in a position with 1 rope clipped 3m below me, the piece below that was slung around a pathetic flake a further 2m down and I was easily 11/12m off the deck fiddling with my next placement. I was beginning to wish for one of Sylvester Stalones \"bolt guns\" and clip my tug-boat cord... and you recon I should go thinner…mmmmm
Would you say stay with 9mm say maybe beal verdon
or should I be brave like you and try an 8.6 beal cobra
8mm just seems plain mad to me...

Postby » Mon Sep 12, 2005 7:37 am

another quick question hector, how do the 8.6 ropes hold out on frequent rapping? cheers

Derek Marshall

Postby Derek Marshall » Mon Sep 12, 2005 9:29 am

We use only one single rope...even on multipitch. Doubles are a pain in the ass. I know what the advantages are, but its just too much trouble.
Carry lots of slings and draws and extend runners.
Strategize your exit from the top. At Mary where its up to 100m we have a 100m static which we fit in the area being climbed. So its up, fit the big rope & down. The last man of the weekend, removes the rope & walks around or uses a natural but more tecnical ab. Bigger walls are a problem.

Rock Hopper

Postby Rock Hopper » Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:02 am

I have two jokers that i mainly use for trading, main reason being that we climb in a party of 3 so the two jokers work wonders, i prefer them to the smaller half ropes as they are rated for single rope use incase I have to from a half rope syste to a single. My parters minds also seem at ease as they second on a great rope.

They are heavier than normal half rope systems, i think weighing at 63 grams a meter, but they are lasting well, had them for almost a year now.

The main advantage is that I use them for muli-pitch sport ropes as a double rope and it gives me a 60m abseil. So i mainly use then as a half rope and a double rope.

I have used it twice as a single rope but needs quite a bit of attention when handling.

I have done a straight 60 meter abseil with an ATC XP and it was decent.

I supose it depends what you're needs are and personal preference. The ropes are becoming more advanced as technology increases and it seems that thinner is becoming de facto.

I can just say that I love my 2 jokers.

Rock Hopper

Postby Rock Hopper » Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:09 am

I have two jokers that i mainly use for trading, main reason being that we climb in a party of 3 so the two jokers work wonders, i prefer them to the smaller half ropes as they are rated for single rope use incase I have to from a half rope syste to a single. My parters minds also seem at ease as they second on a great rope.

They are heavier than normal half rope systems, i think weighing at 63 grams a meter, but they are lasting well, had them for almost a year now.

The main advantage is that I use them for muli-pitch sport ropes as a double rope and it gives me a 60m abseil. So i mainly use then as a half rope and a double rope.

I have used it twice as a single rope but needs quite a bit of attention when handling.

I have done a straight 60 meter abseil with an ATC XP and it was decent.

I supose it depends what you're needs are and personal preference. The ropes are becoming more advanced as technology increases and it seems that thinner is becoming de facto.

I can just say that I love my 2 jokers.

Hector

Postby Hector » Mon Sep 12, 2005 2:07 pm

Firstly, Castle Gorge was kuk. We were actually trying to head up to Dome but didnt realise it was such a long walk. After about 3 hrs we found a miserable pile of choss and almost got bitten by a puff adder at the stance. Finally managed to find the real Dome, but by then it was home time.

Secondly, Fanta I know what u mean about 8 mm being scary. The Verdon is also a great rope, but trust me u wont regret it if u get the cobras. Where were u this weekend? big thrashing offwidths sounds just up my alley.

I've only climbed once on those 8mm ropes, so cant comment on how well the handle abseils. My guess is that they wont be as nice to ab on as their thicker cousins, and you'll probably have to go quite slow. But using a godd prussik can make abbing much easier. I'm too heavy not to use a prussik, even on 9mm ropes.[/quote]

Hector

Postby Hector » Mon Sep 12, 2005 2:12 pm

Sorry, I didnt read the post properly. The 8.6mm ropes are fine for frequent rapping. I've had mine since early 2002 and they're still in reasonable nick (have had to chop about 5m off one rope). I reckon Beal dont make rope sheaths as tough as some other brands (eg Roca) though

Postby » Mon Sep 12, 2005 4:29 pm

Puff adder n the stance... :lol: please do tell:

I've been using edelrid 9mm 50m ropes for a little over a year and a half and won’t be buying these kuk things again!! They just can’t handle frequent use, they both look as though they have been around since the beginning of ww2.

Don’t see how you can be too heavy for a prussic what kind of prussic are you using?? I’m just as heavy as you and I do fine and I’ve also managed with a heavy pack hanging under me.

I was at a place up north this last w-end. Access is very sketchy at the moment I’ll tell you about it at the club some time. But three are some cracks there you’d love! I saw two parallel cracks about 120m long I think K.smith opened them many a year ago they look mad!!!

Duncan_S
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Postby Duncan_S » Tue May 02, 2006 7:34 pm

How about a Marmot Reverlation at 9.2mm? They are rated as single ropes, but just about thin enough to make it worth carrying two and handle nicely. I like my Beal 8.2mm doubles for longer routes, as you normally have a walk in for these.

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Justin
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Postby Justin » Wed May 03, 2006 9:42 am

Hi Duncan

I think you are referring to the Mammut Revelation 9.2mm
Check out http://mammut.ch/mammut/katalog.asp?dart=4&did=9
and http://mammut.co.za to order ropes locally
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

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fanta
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Postby fanta » Wed May 03, 2006 2:10 pm

Since I posted this topic i have bought a pair of beal cobra's 8.6mm half ropes ...... and boy are they sweet!! I can highly recomend them!!!

Thanks Hector for the advice; the jokers would have been a hugh overkill!!! and my new ones are way better then the Edilrid rubbish i had before...

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Gustav
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Joker

Postby Gustav » Fri May 12, 2006 1:17 pm

I use a Joker and 8,6 combined - nice to just clip the Joker when leaving a stance and I can still climb sport routes with it!
Gustav
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Gustav
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Joker

Postby Gustav » Fri May 12, 2006 1:18 pm

I use a Joker and 8,6 combined - nice to just clip the Joker when leaving a stance and I can still climb sport routes with it!
Gustav
Roc 'n Rope Adventures
Waterval Boven
013 257 0363
climb @t rocrope dot com


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