Rope Size?

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Rope Size?

Postby CapeTiger » Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:36 am

Hi XP Climber

I'm new to sport climbing. I'm looking for rope. Which size is better for beginner, 10,2mm or 10,5mm?


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Re: Rope Size?

Postby MarkM » Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:12 am

I would defnitely go for the 10.2mm rope. :thumleft:
Handles way better and feeds well through most devices.
Open hand, open mind...

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby proze » Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:55 am

Some 10.5s will feel like other 10.2s and vice-versa. Try and get a feel of a few ropes in person, read a few reviews and then buy the prettiest one. :)

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby Gustav » Thu Jan 22, 2009 12:12 pm

Thicker ropes offer more friction, making it easier for inexperienced climbers to hold falls and will undoubtedly last longer.

Thinner ropes are easier to feed for those quick/desperate clips and the lightness will not drag you down so much when you are 30m up there. Normally beginners stick to max 25m sport crags(?).

Difference between 10.2 and 10.5mm will alomost not be noticed. You need more than 0.5mm difference to notice it.

Happy shopping.
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Re: Rope Size?

Postby FrancoisD » Thu Jan 22, 2009 12:19 pm

Won't affect anything but the looks but lighter coloured ropes tend to look very grimey after a while and its a schlep to wash a rope.

Between a 10.2 and 10.5 you'll not know the difference but if you want to be niggly about it, check that the rope diameter is recommended for the type of belay device you buy, as far as the latter is concerned, Reverso 3 is probably the most useful thing on the market.

I use 10.5's but the one (Roca) is markedly more difficult to handle / knot and tends twist i.e. it has more of a memory whilst the other (Rivory, I think) although of similar diameter is much easier to work with. Buy the best rope you can afford.

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby MarkM » Thu Jan 22, 2009 1:20 pm

You will notice the difference if you ever plan to rope solo...

Personally I would stay away from Roca. All the Roca ropes I have tied into (I have never owned one) get a black grime on the sheath for some reason and as said above, tend to twist and knott up easily while belaying.

I have owned a Beal (Flyer) and a Lanex Tendon, both 10.2. Both performed really well. I would say that the Beal was a touch better, but not by far.

The Blue Water ropes also tend to have a good feel about them although I have only used their skinner ropes.

Good luck.
Open hand, open mind...

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby frosty » Thu Jan 22, 2009 2:02 pm

I was in the same situation as you considering what to buy for my first rope. I looked at the weight of the ropes around, some 10.5's are the same as 10.2's, for bluewater only a 2 gram per m difference, so thats 60 grams for a long sport climb. As said above when starting out you want something that will last therefore thicker is better but also the number of falls as you will find out this can vary. Bluewater again the 10.5 - 11 falls while the 10.2 - 8 falls. My bluewater 10.5 is def the best rope i've used. Lasted very very well, still supple, no kinks, almost no wear on the sheath and works well on my bug.

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby shorti » Thu Jan 22, 2009 2:20 pm

if you take that many factor 1.8 falls you are doing something wrong :roll:

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby CapeTiger » Thu Jan 22, 2009 3:55 pm

Thanks :thumleft:

I've deciding to buy Tendon 10.5 ambition. The more friction is better for my partner, who just started belay a day ago and needs more practice.

:arrow: Next step: I'm looking for quickdraws but I'm not hurry. I need go to learn / course how to sport climbing. It is a big challenge for me. Why? I'm deaf. Sport climbing uses a communication between Climber and Leader.

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby Mark » Thu Jan 22, 2009 5:24 pm

I have owned a couple of ropes - all 10.5 mm

I agree that the Roca gets grimey and fluffy which makes it difficult to feed slack
I have a tendon but it seems to get kinks and twists (the rope has "memory") quite easily which makes it irritating to belay with (I have stopped using it because of this)

If you want to buy 10.5 I would suggest that you spend a bit extra and buy a beal (I think I have a top gun), you will see it has a much finer weave sheath which makes it feeds easier and last longer (although it has more stretch when you fall)

I would also think that if you buy 10.2 then a roca or a tendon will be okay (once they have fluffed they will be like a 10.5)

Being deaf shouldnt be a huge issue - at most sport crags you can see your partner clip - the problem will be long routes when your partner is out of sight.

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby mjs » Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:05 pm

I'd say go for a 10.2mm, and one that has a decent weave . My first rope was a Roca (I think it was the 10.2; I say "think", because I haven't bothered to remember; as long as it held my ass when I came off the rock face, it didn't really matter), which I've now had for probably around 4 years. With use, it's become really fluffy, even though the weave itself is still in quite good condition, and the core is in excellent condition. I had to buy myself a new rope, so that I could use my GriGri comfortably and safely.

So, although I'd agree that Gustav is right that you won't feel the difference between the 10.2 and 10.5 initially, if you intend using your rope regularly and don't want to replace it after only a few years, go for the thinner rope with a decent weave - otherwise your rope might look like :afro: after a year or two of use.

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Re: Rope Size?

Postby Adrian20971 » Mon Jan 26, 2009 4:39 pm

I started off life with a 10.5 Roca, but now climb on a 9.8mm Beal

The Beal is way easier to climb with and clips and handles easier.

The downside is that it has way more dynamic stretch than the Roca, which means even after you have taken up all the slack you keep falling. Also on bigger falls it takes a lot of grunt to stop it slipping through the belay device.

Choose a rope to suit your skill level though - as posted previously the thicker rope has more friction.

All said and done the 9.8mm rocks.

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