Montagu - Castle in the Sky

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Justin
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Montagu - Castle in the Sky

Postby Justin » Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:11 pm

Stuart & Regula Brown have finally finished bolting the monster route they started last week on Aasvoelkrans.

Regula and Stuart climbed it this morning reporting that its really good.

Route description

Castle in the Sky 19/6a 18 bolts 60m! FA Stuart and Regula Brown, 4.11.08

This route has a little bit of everything and a bit more... it just keeps on going (fantastic!) it is of very good quality, enjoy the journey.

Warning :!: This route is not to be approached with a normal sport climber attitude. It has a very big "trad" route feel and the leader should be comfortable with grade 19. Communication between climber and belayer is limited due to the length. After the half way mark you can not be lowered off.

Do not attempt to clean the route by lowering off. The route has some loose rock on it so don't pull on everything (& think about taking a helmet). One is able to make a semi hanging belay at half way if things get a bit airy, some good cracks for medium to small nuts and a bolt. Have some longer slings for rope drag.

:!: Do not rap off the route, there are birds nesting lower down in the gully :!:

- Approach from Aasvoelkrans, walk up the trail to the beacon.
- Just before the beacon as the path takes a right turn, take a left to the saddle overlooking Cogmans Buttress.
- Kit up here and leave rucksack.
- Follow cairns first to the right then down the slope to the left to the lowest point of the face.

- Descend via a lower off from a bolt with a leaver biner into the gully and walk up the gully and down the slope to where the rucksacks are.
- Look for two large cairns for easiest way down.
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RockHopper
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Re: Montagu - Castle in the Sky

Postby RockHopper » Wed Nov 05, 2008 7:44 am

Thanks Stuart & Regula, I can't wait to give it a go next time I am up that way. :thumright

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tygereye
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Re: Montagu - Castle in the Sky

Postby tygereye » Wed Nov 05, 2008 10:32 am

Thanks so much Stuart and Regula!!!
Definitely will try it out as soon as we go there again!
And thanks, Justin, for posting the info.
Summer's coming, and it's time to get cranking
Rock on!

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Justin
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Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu
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Re: Montagu - Castle in the Sky

Postby Justin » Wed Nov 05, 2008 10:45 am

Just spoke to Stuart this morning... make sure you're able to climb solid 19 before hopping on this route as retreating from above the halfway point will prove problematic :pirat:

All thanks goes to Stuboy... he sent me the info, posting it is (generally) easy!
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Brent
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Re: Montagu - Castle in the Sky

Postby Brent » Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:29 am

Please *please* people, wear a helmet if you do any of the multi-pitch routes in Montagu. There is a lot of loose rock.

Please.

If you don't have a helmet, try and borrow one.


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