New? route at Wilgepoort

New Areas. New routes. Retrobolting. Add-ons. Re-grading. etc.
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm

New? route at Wilgepoort

Postby Hector » Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:55 pm

Has anyone tried/sent the diagonal crack starting about a third of the way up Cabernet/Muscadel, and heading up right to the top of the crux on The Key? It looks rad

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Re: New? route at Wilgepoort

Postby Heavy » Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:02 pm

No, but how did you gain access to Wilgepoort?

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Re: New? route at Wilgepoort

Postby Stephen » Wed Aug 27, 2008 2:06 pm

Hi Hector

Wow, Wilgepoort! what an awesome spot. Used to go there quite regularly at one point. We even had a few WUMC formal dinners there. What's access like these days?

A friend (Steve Dunnett) and I tried the crack a loooong time ago (like 8 years I'm guessing). If it's the same one I'm thinking of, it heads out on the right side of the main open book that Cabernet follows?

I recall Steve took quite a long lead out (quite pumpy and hard to place gear) when he pumped out and and took a screamer onto a bomber number 9 or 10 wallnut. We lowered off at that point with the intention of returning. I think Russ Dodding retrieved our nut on top-rope a while later (and gloatingly told us he was keeping the nut as booty!). Never been back since then.

Anyway, I'd be keen to hear if you manage to free it. It's bound to be a classic piece of climbing (probably in the 25 range I'd say). Ask Russ Dodding or Paul Fatti, they used to go there quite a bit.


Posts: 413
Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm

Re: New? route at Wilgepoort

Postby Hector » Fri Aug 29, 2008 12:45 pm

Heavy, the jhb MCSA has organised access with the now friendly farmer. You just phone the farmer up, tell him when you coming and deposit R20 for the parking. Contact Uschi for details. Not sure what the deal is for non-members.

Stephen, thanks for the colourful story. The route looks amazing. Pulled some bushes out of it on the weekend but had some nasty tonsilitis so wasnt up to trying it. Will head back soon. Spoke with Paul Fatti and he reckons the only ascent was Russ' top rope one.

Wilge is an awesome place!

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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: New? route at Wilgepoort

Postby SNORT » Sat Aug 30, 2008 2:08 pm

I fiddled on that crack about 20 or more years ago with Tarquin Holt I think. Never wrote it up. Mega reach move somewhere for me. Don't recall freeing it. Gotta pic? Anyway you are welcome to claim it....

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