Trad vs Sport

General climbing discussions. Climbing, Bouldering, Mountaineering. Anything!!
**Keep the arguments to the suject, not the members!
Post Reply

Trad vs Sport

Post by Mario » Wed Aug 03, 2005 11:30 am

Good morning guys,
If you climb a Sport route at grade 18 and climb the same route soley on Trad does it affect the grade at all? Stupid question?
Cheers to the good life! :?

Post by » Wed Aug 03, 2005 11:55 am

Use the bolts if they are there man!!!

Posts: 147
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2005 11:59 am
Real Name: Andrew Blanche
Location: Pretoria / Johannesburg

Re: Trad vs Sport

Post by Chalk » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:01 pm

Mario - dont know if this will help, I'm happy on an 18 sport, but would only at this stage look at a 16 trad (and even then the kahunas are tight!) I have found that a trad grade is about 2 higher than a sport grade. Technicaly i guess the rock stays the same but the mind does things to you!

Post by » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:03 pm

of course it different. there's no clip-and-go vibe. You either have to run out easy sections and protect harder parts, or risk the pump of your life trying to be over safe. There is a fine line, and most climbers mess up at some point. It's just wether your brains followed through or not with the anchors. In any case, the only bolt/protection you want on any route is where you're gonna fall.

You need to climb all styles to enjoy the full package. Too much bouldering, you lose your trad head, too much trad, your sport climbing won't carry, too uch sport climbing, you start shitting yourself on it goes.

User avatar
Posts: 3717
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu

Post by Justin » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:16 pm

I agree with Chalk on the '2 down grades'.
Being able to place gear really fast helps - if you fiddel around trying to place a piece of gear for five minutes, you're gonna get pumped!
Climb ZA - Administrator


Trad vs Sport

Post by Mario » Wed Aug 03, 2005 1:30 pm

Thanks for the info guys!!
There are a couple of sport routes which apparently were original Trad lines.There are some beautiful Sport lines which have classic status and i think it might be really cool to try them on Trad.Allot of climbers know certain (Sport) routes really well ie. rest spots, runouts etc. I don't know about you but if you predominantly do Trad and get on a Sport line you almost instinctively check out where your next placement\\pro might be!
I am specifically thinking of doing \"Who knows\" (18) at Lakeside.Pro looked good and i know the moves. But of course it helps not only to have the \"nuts\" but the \"balls\" aswell!
Cheers guys.
To the GOOD life!

Post Reply