Bobbejaans Berg - Topic cont.

GarethFrost · Post by **GarethFrost** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:31 am

Emile, what's the plan for getting those hangers added to the easy routes on the far right?

emile · Post by **emile** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 12:08 pm

Gareth: I'm having a tough time finding hangers, it seems every one is out / only have a couple in stock. I'm waiting for feedback from a couple of other guys, but you if know where I can get 15 - 20 I'd appreciate the info. I've arranged with the owners to give them the quote and from there we can buy it.

Supergirl: Which 16(s) are you talking about? If you're referring to \"Waterfall\" I'd agree, it think it's harder. I think most of the grades needs confirmation, so feel free to add your comments on the wiki.

I'll keep you posted on the hanger situation....

emile · Post by **emile** » Mon Feb 04, 2008 1:42 pm

Hangers: I've arranged with the owners and placed an order for 14 hangers (all that's available at the supplier), should arrive in time for the weekend.

Waiting to get ETA's on additional hangers as the 14 will not be enough, will keep you posted.

supergirl · Post by **supergirl** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 8:53 am

emile wrote: Supergirl: Which 16(s) are you talking about? If you're referring to "Waterfall" I'd agree, it think it's harder. I think most of the grades needs confirmation, so feel free to add your comments on the wiki.....

Howzit Emile, We did:

MP3 - slight overhang crux at the top tricky,
Matrix - very very hard start we ended up using the tree and then stuggled on the next move as well :-)
Joune/Myne - great climb

Maybe it was also the combination of the new type of rock and the bolts being quite reachy which made it seem so much harder than Bronkie's 16 grades - we will climb the routes again when we go next and then add our 2c worth on the WIKI

All in all a job well done Emile - thanks for the effort so far !!

mokganjetsi · Post by **mokganjetsi** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 9:36 am

methinks most old bronkies climbs are easy for the grade (except kate's moss!!) so its probably not the best benchmark..... go climb some 16s in the cape and then compare to bobbejaansberg grades

supergirl · Post by **supergirl** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:30 am

mokganjetsi wrote:methinks most old bronkies climbs are easy for the grade (except kate's moss!!) so its probably not the best benchmark..... go climb some 16s in the cape and then compare to bobbejaansberg grades

Mokganjetsi - I will take you up on the challenge as we are planning to do our first Cape Town long weekend @ Montagu in March

(Maybe we have just been spoilt with Bronkies and Boven)

GarethFrost · Post by **GarethFrost** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:51 am

When the routes at Bronkies that you are refering to were opened, they were not graded as easy:
Austin's Mojo was 15
Gunning For Crows was 16
Rock Flower was 16

Emile:
I do not have any more contacts for hangers. I used to buy the SKY hangers from Derek Marshall when I did the purchasing for the club.
Be aware that some of the bolts might also need replacing as the nuts have ceased onto the bolts and stripped. Don't force the nuts if they are tight, rather take along some Q20 to help ease them a bit.

mokganjetsi · Post by **mokganjetsi** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 1:53 pm

right on gareth, those opening grades are probably what it should be. and \"mini me\" can come in at 17 (maybe?); \"green machine\" 18 etc..... in any case, always a subjective issue.

supergirl, i'm not a kapenaar but climbing there for the first time about 3 months ago rocked my bronkies grades. i now understand why the new climbs like \"grim reaper\" and \"hallo clarice\" are graded the way they are. \"dark half\" still boggles my mind though.....

hav fun in montagu

GarethFrost · Post by **GarethFrost** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 9:53 am

Green Machine was opened on trad at 19, so I guess the grade kinda stuck. I would not object to dropping it to 18, same for Mini Me going down to 17.

Grading routes hard gives one the sinister pleasure of watching people \"kak\" off a little and complain about the number.
I believe that there are only 2 grades in climbing. 1- you can climb it, 2- you can't climb it...

mr Chabalala · Post by **mr Chabalala** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:08 am

Grades are always subjective, however always nice if a crag is consistently graded, even if it means having a re-grade of every climb.

Grading routes hard gives one the sinister pleasure of watching people \"kak\" off a little and complain about the number.

Some of the new routes at Bronkies have definitely been providing the bolter's that sinister pleasure.
aka Grim Reaper 19, The Dark Half 20, Hairy Maclary 18 ??

Any objections then to change the routes back to their original grade on the Wiki.

When the routes at Bronkies that you are refering to were opened, they were not graded as easy:
Austin's Mojo was 15
Gunning For Crows was 16
Rock Flower was 16

I'd suggest keep Mini-me at 18, and make Green Machine a 18, but I;m no expert as most climbs are still in the 2- you can't climb it... range

GarethFrost · Post by **GarethFrost** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 8:33 am

I know the bolters of Grim Reaper etc. They are pleased with their work

I will make the suggested grade changes to the Bronkies RD and lets see what happens. I doubt it will make much difference as they are small adjustments to \"easier\" routes.
As for maintaining consistancy, this will be near impossible with the range of people opening routes, each with their own style.
Remember, a route is either in catagory 1 or 2

emile · Post by **emile** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:09 pm

Hangers - update:
All the hangers on the far right section has been replaced, with the exception of 2 where the bolts are loose in the hole and the nut has seized making it impossible to put on a hanger. A 3rd bolt already had a hanger which is swiveling freely and cannot be tightened due to the nut being seized and the bolt turning in the hole.

Liewe Heksie: First bolt no hanger, last bolt loose but usable hanger.
Mina Moo: First bolt no hanger, can use the first bolt of adjacent route.

emile · Post by **emile** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 2:23 pm

Access:
The owner noted that certain people are not reporting to reception before climbing (and driving off afterwards). This will not be tolerated. Please report to reception first.

Thanks to those people, he's thinking of not allowing the access from the bottom anymore and requiring people to park inside and take the long way around. Could someone please identify these assholes?

Bolting:
It seems there are some confusion around the bolting: Please arrange with the owner before doing anything - it's still private property.

climbing4heaven · Post by **climbing4heaven** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:47 pm

Thanks Emile for all the hard work.

Wonder what happened to Jacques with regard to this subject

mr Chabalala · Post by **mr Chabalala** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:21 am

Is Bobejaans crag worth it. From what I've heard it (i haven't been there myself)

a) Heats up quickly
b) has copious amount of Bobbejaan excrement , causing an almost unbearable stink. Especially at the one or two climbs with shade later n in the day.
c) R30 a person
d) Climbs are limited, and mostly on the short side.

emile · Post by **emile** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 9:42 am

mrC: No offense, but feel free to not go. Otherwise, why don't you just see for yourself?

Marc · Post by **Marc** » Wed Feb 13, 2008 5:49 pm

Let’s be honest, climbing in Gauteng sucks compared to places like Cape Town. As the saying goes “Beggars can’t be choosers”… No one want’s to go to the same local crag EVERY weekend. The best thing about climbing is variety and not always quality… From what I’ve heard the rock there is different to Bronkies and that’s great for some variation. We should appreciate every little bit of rock we can get up here.

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Bobbejaans Berg - Topic cont.

Bobbejaans Berg - Topic cont.

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Re: