Climbing shoes

ryancrawcour · Post by **ryancrawcour** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:10 pm

So as a beginner climber i wanna invest in a good pair of shoes that will give me the \"bang for my buck\" so to speak.

Do shoes really have to be x sizes smaller than usual? Is there any way to avoid the bleeding and blistered toes i've seen climbers at crags getting cause their shoes are too small?

I know it is cause you dont want the shoe bending etc. but surely thats why these are specialized shoes ... they should be built to not bend. period.

So what should i look at?

Stu · Post by **Stu** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:28 pm

No matter what anyone tells you, as a beginner, there is no point in ruining your climbing experience by having a shoe that is too small. Trust me on this one, no matter what that shop assistant tells you ask for a comfortable shoe. Sure you want a shoe that fits snuggly but you should be able to go long periods without your toes starting to ache - don't go the opposite route either though and get something too big.

Your technique is usually so bad starting off that any small benefit gained from a tight shoe will be lost anyway. You can't go wrong with a nice of Flash's as your first boot. Easy on and off and fairly comforatble at a good price - unless you're planning on trad then you need some lace-ups.

ryancrawcour · Post by **ryancrawcour** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:46 pm

thx for the info ....
yeah i hear you on the comfort thing....
i do plan on going trad at some point, but right now until i can comfortably climb a few decent grade sport routes i think i shall stick there for now.

not wanting to sound dumb.... but what are Flash's?

ryancrawcour · Post by **ryancrawcour** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:47 pm

nevermind .... me thinks i just answered my own question re: Flash's

Stu, you talking about these?
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... ductId=537

Stu · Post by **Stu** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:53 pm

Flash's are a shoe made by Mad Rock.
Also remember that your shoe will strech somewhat, so rather too small than too big.

nosmo · Post by **nosmo** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:26 pm

One thing to keep in mind: leather shoes stretch, synthetic ones don't really. Bring on the flame.

ericd · Post by **ericd** » Wed Aug 22, 2007 6:31 pm

My 5 tens are in for a resole with Danny, Got a pair of evolv shoes for R500 from City Rock. Good shoes for really good price.

The Lentil · Post by **The Lentil** » Wed Aug 29, 2007 8:46 pm

Evolv shoes are making a name for itself in SA. Good things about Evolv shoes are that they are pre-sized so no need to go a size or 2 smaller. As well Evolv shoes do not stretch (non stretch synthetic leather). And last but not least they are priced really good. Check out www.evolvsports.com.

Magnus · Post by **Magnus** » Wed Aug 29, 2007 10:53 pm

Eric, how well are your evolvs lasting?

I personally don't think the evolv is durable enough, even for the price. Anyone out there with an oldish pair?

mr Chabalala · Post by **mr Chabalala** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:20 am

I've got a pair of Mad Rock Phoenix, 1 size smaller, and they are extremely comfy. Been climbing in them for about 9 months, and they are still going strong. I reckon they are the perfect start up shoe.

Another shoe you could consider is the La Sportiva Mojo, also very comy.
Both farely inexpensive.

Important thing is to go and actually try out and shoe before buying.

ryancrawcour · Post by **ryancrawcour** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:56 am

mr Chabalala wrote:Important thing is to go and actually try out and shoe before buying.

how do you try a shoe BEFORE buying it? borrow from mates? or are there stores out there that will let you try before you buy?

Scott · Post by **Scott** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:00 am

Hey Tristan put together a good guide to help decide fit for rock shoes. see it here
http://madrock.co.za/fit.html

Try on several different sizes and models to make sure you get a shoe you are happy with. Remember most shoes come in half sizes as well.

ryancrawcour · Post by **ryancrawcour** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:29 am

where would be the best place in Jhb to go to that offers a multitude of different shoes to try, and ideally have a wall or something in-store to try the shoe on.

Marmite · Post by **Marmite** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 10:41 am

Just curious, but why are lace up rock shoes recommended for trad?

OneDogClimbing · Post by **OneDogClimbing** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:11 am

ryan: The best shop I know of is Drifters in Sandton City. The guys are really helpful, prices good and they have a good selection of gear.

brolloks · Post by **brolloks** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 2:10 pm

Hey!

By experience: the best ever shoes are: 1)Saltic Vampirs, go 1-2 sizes smaller, they stretch, 2) Saltic Sepias, go 1-2 sizes smaller, they stretch too, 3) Can't go wrong with Mad rock New Mugens, they don't stretch much, may go 1 size smaller, or Any Evolve pair( Evolves have great stickyness to their rubber, but I'm not too sure of their durability either or of their heel-hooking capability), but at most 1 size smaller, maybe not even that.

Been trying them all out, so the above is only my opinion of the shoes I've Rocked with thus far...

must say, I'm still looking for that pair that'll enable me to climb grade 30...

ryancrawcour · Post by **ryancrawcour** » Thu Aug 30, 2007 2:20 pm

shoo with so many different shoes mentioned it would appear that it is very much a matter of personal taste.

so i guess the only way to really know is to try a few different makes & models.

i recon i'll hit Drifters and try a few

thanks for all the info and suggestions
i'll let you know what i decide on ultimately.

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