Belay device
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- Posts: 43
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 1:15 pm
Belay device
howdy ....
i'm looking at getting a new belay device as my trusty ole figure8 just aint cutting it any longer. sure i know there are these fancy auto devices out there, but somehow i guess i prefer the age old trusted manual method more.
now the question is .... what to do for?
Black Diamond ATC XP
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... roductId=9
Black Diamond ATC Guide
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... ductId=123
Mad Rock Paradox
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... ductId=543
or last, but not least
DMM Bug
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... ductId=456
what say ye all?
any others that i have missed?
i'm looking at getting a new belay device as my trusty ole figure8 just aint cutting it any longer. sure i know there are these fancy auto devices out there, but somehow i guess i prefer the age old trusted manual method more.
now the question is .... what to do for?
Black Diamond ATC XP
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... roductId=9
Black Diamond ATC Guide
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... ductId=123
Mad Rock Paradox
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... ductId=543
or last, but not least
DMM Bug
http://www.mountainmailorder.co.za/inde ... ductId=456
what say ye all?
any others that i have missed?
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- Posts: 43
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 1:15 pm
Ryan,
No question in my mind, go for the BD ATC Guide.
I wanted to buy the BD Guide a while ago, which I did do, and it really is great!!
Read the discussion at http://www.climb.co.za/phpBB2/viewtopic ... +atc+guide
No question in my mind, go for the BD ATC Guide.
I wanted to buy the BD Guide a while ago, which I did do, and it really is great!!
Read the discussion at http://www.climb.co.za/phpBB2/viewtopic ... +atc+guide
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- Posts: 43
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 1:15 pm
Re: Belay device
shameless punt there Baldrick,Baldrick wrote:How about checking ours

I would highly recomend the ATC Guide!!!
I explained myself here already:
http://www.climbing.co.za/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=2249
I explained myself here already:
http://www.climbing.co.za/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=2249
Petzl has a new version of the Reverso coming out...
http://www.canyoneering.net/forums/show ... php?p=8367

http://www.canyoneering.net/forums/show ... php?p=8367
The new Petzl Reverso is almost an exact copy of the guide!?!?
Just goes to show BD got it right the first time
One thing I would like to crit about the Petzel 1...
The big ring used to hang the device in an auto block config; looks alot smaller. I really like the Guides big loop as it passes very easily over the screwing mechanics that surrounds the gate on screw up biners. Even the fat twist lock I use for my belaying is not a problem. It would seem to me as though Petzl just tried to make there device the same as the Guide but only lighter.
I'll stick to my Guide for now thanks...
Just goes to show BD got it right the first time

One thing I would like to crit about the Petzel 1...
The big ring used to hang the device in an auto block config; looks alot smaller. I really like the Guides big loop as it passes very easily over the screwing mechanics that surrounds the gate on screw up biners. Even the fat twist lock I use for my belaying is not a problem. It would seem to me as though Petzl just tried to make there device the same as the Guide but only lighter.
I'll stick to my Guide for now thanks...
The Tre is great for double 9mm's - i.e. trad. When only one channel is loaded (like when you're climbing sport), I find the device doesn't sit perfectly flat and ends up putting twists in the rope.
RCC - if you're currently into sport, and only looking to move into trad later, stick with Fanta's advice and go with the Guide.
RCC - if you're currently into sport, and only looking to move into trad later, stick with Fanta's advice and go with the Guide.
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- Posts: 243
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 7:25 am
- Real Name: Russell Warren
- Location: Durban
I have been using a tre for sport and trad for about 3 years now and in my opinion it is one of the safest belay devices around (once you know how to use it). It works well or bolting as well. I use 2 x Beal Cobras for trad (8.6mm I think) and a Roca 10.5mm for sport and the device handles both ropes well. I have experienced the twisting referred to above once, but with somebody elses rope. That said I think the tre really shines for trad.
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- Joined: Fri Feb 10, 2006 11:35 pm
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- Posts: 43
- Joined: Wed Aug 22, 2007 1:15 pm
Belay devices
All belay devices have pros and cons. By far the best device is the one that you have the most experience with and I can talk with absolute authority on this. After 30 years of climbing and catching hundreds of falls mostly using a sticht plate or ATC I have the un-enviable reputation of dropping a climber using the ATC XP and then using the Trango Cinch. Both devices were new ot me and there is nothing wrong with either if you are familiar and experienced in using them.
I have converted to using the Tre (with the Bugette as back up )and a careful review of their attributes show their advantages compared to other devices whetehr for sport, trad or guiding as you really only want to use one device. Both devices rely on added friction with tension and the Tre does lock like a Grigri. The big advantage is that the feeding hand is always on the breaking side of the device and the Tre locking system does not require being held open.
I have converted to using the Tre (with the Bugette as back up )and a careful review of their attributes show their advantages compared to other devices whetehr for sport, trad or guiding as you really only want to use one device. Both devices rely on added friction with tension and the Tre does lock like a Grigri. The big advantage is that the feeding hand is always on the breaking side of the device and the Tre locking system does not require being held open.