Looking to upgrade / resole - suggestions?

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OneDogClimbing
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Looking to upgrade / resole - suggestions?

Postby OneDogClimbing » Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:08 am

Hi

I currently have La Sportiva Cliff Blue's (my first shoes), which has been quite nice so far. I'm looking to either resole them, or perhaps upgrade to either Miura's, Testarossa's or I'm looking at the \"MONTRAIL WASABI\" heat mouldable's.

Could anyone give me some advice - would a resole be worth it on my current shoes, i.e. is there \"better\" rubber? How are the Wasabi's? Is the Miura / Testorassa very uncomfortable? Any other suggestions as a progression from my current shoes?

Thanks in advance

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oOdball
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Postby oOdball » Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:10 pm

My observations:

1. Muira's rock. They'll perform better than your old shoes (more agressive shape) but should last pretty well and provide good stiff foot support (think standing on edges for a long time). Expensive.

2. Testarossa's are much less stiff and far more agressively curved. Think steep climbs. They also work well if you're climbing less steep stuff and need precision (think 29+). Expensive.

3. Wasabi's are comfortable and not very stiff but perform well in my experience. Also more agressively curved than you're current shoes. Unfortunately, they will stretch, so unless you're prepared to replace the velcro fastening system when you buy them (REALLY crap velcro and you'll need it to keep the shoes tight), don't buy them. Reasonably priced.
You have an opinion, so do I. When these differ, please don't confuse your opinion with the truth, nothing is absolute.

dannypinkas
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Real Name: Danny Pinkas

Postby dannypinkas » Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:12 pm

Hi
Cliffs are by far the most resoled shoes - at least form the ones I have done. They are excellent all round shoes, but seem to have some sort of design fault arond the heels and \"ball\" of the foot, causing delamination in those areas. This, however, has no impact on their climbing performance. Interestingly, Murias come in at a distant second to the Cliffs.
Both Murias and Testtarosas more advanced technically (and financially!) than the Cliffs. I am not sure about the Wasabis, but they certainly don't have the same reputation (and cost) as the La Sportiva shoes.
All the above, and particularly the Cliffs (I have done 1 pair 4 times already), respond very well to re-soling. I have both their original Vibram rubber and Stealth. The latter enjoys a better reputation, though some of my local clients insist that Vibram is better.
For further details you can check out www.resoles.za.net
Happy Climbing,
Danny

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Avatar
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Postby Avatar » Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:23 pm

FWIW, I've been using a pair of Montrail Wasabi's for just under a year of regular, but by no means punishing, climbing, indoor and out. Still doing fine, velcro included. (But to be honest, I can see that the velcro is gonna go at some point.)

I find it a great edging shoe, but either it's me, or it doesn't do so well for smearing.

I haven't moulded them yet. Friend of mine with a different pair of Montrail's thermo-mouldable shoes (Splitters I think) said that his shoes tightened up noticeably when he did the heat moulding, and since I bought mine pretty tight, I decided to not try it until they'd stretched a bit more.

(There has definitely been stretching already though.)

--A

Brussel
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Postby Brussel » Tue Jul 03, 2007 12:49 pm

Hey onedgog

I'll give you my 2 cents. A mate has the Miuras, and they are great however a lot of the rubber has pulled away at the edges which when you are paying well over R1000 is not expected.

I have the Wasabis and they are interesting. The velcro is now fine (the first pair I had replaced) They synthetic upper stretched significantly when wet from sweat. When dry they edge great! but when damp(I sweat a lot) I find they are a little slippery inside and edging is not great at all.

I find them very sensitive for smearing and the rubber is very sticky and long wearing. The midsole is flexible and they do not offer a great deal of support.

My 2 cents worth!

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OneDogClimbing
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Thanks!!!

Postby OneDogClimbing » Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:35 pm

Thanks to everyone who responded, I really appreciate it!! I'll consider all the advice, thanks again for the viewpoints.

At the moment I'm leaning toward the Muira, but we'll see.

Later

Marshall
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Postby Marshall » Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:37 pm

Resole & upgrade. Do both.

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Gustav
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Postby Gustav » Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:31 pm

I was oh so happy with Muiras, then tried out the Saltic Vampir (with velcro), and love them to bits. I generally prefer velcro and they are a bunch cheaper than the 'Sportivas.
Gustav
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climb @t rocrope dot com

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XMod
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Postby XMod » Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:53 pm

Marsmallou's got the right idea, you can never have too many shoes (and that advice is not just for girls!)

Been wearing the wasabi for just over a year as my everyroute shoe.
The velcro is kak and is starting to pop open half way up routes, not easy to replace it given the fancy straps that come with it. You must mould them, way way better, dont delay too long Avatar you will ruin them by wearing them too much before doing this! They stick incredibly at first but need to be kept scrupulously clean to carry on working for you. I found the rubber durability to be average, the fit definitely slides after a while. Not bad all in all but there are more durable shoes around.

Check out the Saltic Vampir (or latest equivalent), not ultra high performance but a brilliantly solid shoe that performs well at a low cost. Hell if Clinton Martinengo can climb 33 in them they cant be that bad!

Mates of mine swear by the Miura's. Great precision shoe but not that supportive (gotta disagree with baldbod). Suitable fo advanced users who have strong feet and want performance.

The list goes endlessly on.... Figure out what type of climbing you do the most, and at what level you climb. Its a little pointless paying top dollar for a flimsy slipper that wont last and requires super strong feet if you are plonking up 15's! This will just cause you pain in the feet and wallet. A stronger more supportive shoe is the way to go for most novice / intermediate climbers (cheaper is good too!). The rubber on most brands is pretty darn good these days (just keep it clean). Lastly (scuse the pun!) the fit is all important try on a million shoes (like even all the pairs of the ones you want that are in the shop's stock, there will be one 'magic' pair) before spending your hard earned cash!

PS Shout out to Danny! Send ur old faithfuls in to him and he will give them a new lease on life. Great for training in and general use.

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Avatar
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Re:

Postby Avatar » Wed Jul 04, 2007 6:53 am

XMod wrote:You must mould them, way way better, dont delay too long Avatar you will ruin them by wearing them too much before doing this!


Thanks for the advice. I've just been putting it off really. Will do it this weekend. :D Hmm...I wonder if my trouble smearing with them is because they're not kept scrupulously clean? Will give them a good going over.

--A

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OneDogClimbing
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Postby OneDogClimbing » Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:53 am

Xmod, Gustav (and Marshal for the short & sweet) thanks, I did not know of the \"Saltic Vampir\"'s, I'll definately check them out, I'll also try the resoling, bring out the girl in me.

Morning quickie, oldie but goldie:
What does c:\\DarthVadar say to c:\\DarthVadar\\LukeSkywalker ?

Luke, I'm your folder...

Bwahahahaha.

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XMod
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Postby XMod » Wed Jul 04, 2007 9:29 am

Yeah Avatar the moulding definitely helps the shoes keep their shape, doesnt make a massive difference to the feel but helps to keep the fit good for longer. I found over time they do get a wee bit sloppy tho. I think all that padding makes them a little bulky around the toe, but quite a nice shoe.

Cleaning: Just scrub the soles under a trickle of running water after each days climbing (try not to soak the shoe) dont bother with soap or detergent. (Use an old brush it will go black!) In between climbs squeak the soles up with the palm of your hand and avoid walking around in them.

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Avatar
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Postby Avatar » Wed Jul 04, 2007 9:45 am

Thanks, will definitely give it a go. (I know the soles should be cleaned regularly, but I'm hell of a lazy, ;) and only climbing for the fun of it, not to really push the limits.)

Mine are still a good tight fit though, and I fully expect them to last me another year (assuming the velcro holds :lol: ).

--A


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