carabiners for trad climbing

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GBM
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 8:03 pm
Real Name: Grant Marinus
Location: Cape Town

carabiners for trad climbing

Postby GBM » Wed Jun 20, 2007 3:41 pm

I purchased a few BD and Petzl Ovals which we find really easy to clip on the moderate trad routes we do; i have heard that these are not the strongest and that they are generally used for \"rigging\". Naturally we use locking biners for anchors.

What do most climbing folk use as the standard clip in carabiner on trad routes and is there a reason to change from the gear we use at present.

Brussel
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Postby Brussel » Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:38 pm

Hi GBM
Personally I use the same standard quickdraws I use when sport climbing and all my cams are racked on standard 'D' shape 'biners.

There are some things counting against ovals:
1. As far as I recall the closed gate strength of ovals is good but open gate is significantly weaker than D shaped 'biners.
2. Ovals are heavy

But that aside, for moderate tradding I think you'll do just fine on the ones you've got for now. Don't spend the cash until you need to!
Happy climbing!
B

Nic Le Maitre
Posts: 877
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 9:40 am
Real Name: Nic Le Maitre
Location: Stellenbosch

Postby Nic Le Maitre » Tue Jul 03, 2007 1:48 pm

Hi GBM

Ovals are weaker than D/HMS pattern biners, usually 22kN vs 25-30kN because the strain is distributed evenly along the gate and the spine on an oval rather than mostly along the spine with a D/HMS. This is not really significant though as the usual accepted strength of say a nut is about 5kN. The nut is actually stronger but the rock may not be.
So, what will happen is that your gear will rip before the biner breaks.

Happy climbing
Nic

GBM
Posts: 104
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 8:03 pm
Real Name: Grant Marinus
Location: Cape Town

Thanks for the info

Postby GBM » Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:23 pm

Thanks for this Nic & Brussel; figured that it is more likely that the quality of the placement itself as opposed to the gear which should be the crucial determinant.


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