Yo all,

Anyone out there climed the Paradigm Shift route on the Sentinel recently?? I see via http://www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/sentinel.htm that it is fully bolted??... if so what condition are the bolts in and would we need back-up trad equip as anchors on belay stations/topping out??

Thanks!!

Hey,

I was on it in May 2009, but didn't do the last pitch after getting rained/snowed off (really!). Bolts were all fine up that point, and no need for other placements. There are some run out sections, but not to the point that I wished I had more protection.

I would strongly recommend climbing with 2 ropes as rope drag is horrendous with a single.

Ian

I also got rained out, but i would agree with ian, rope drag!!! if you dont have two ropes, slings will help! lead outs are a bit exciting. need to go back and finish it, hate being a quitter.

Hi, what grades are we looking at for P SHIFT? And what other climbs are there that top out on the sentinel? Grades? Or just post a good url for me to look at.

No need found the wiki

Hi

Did the climb a few years back with Guy Hubbard. I suggest stay in Witsihoek hotel Fri night (normally no need to book). Then start early as weather tends to close later in the day. Start is easy to find, climb clean and mostly good rock, (except perhaps the 3rd pitch a few suspect flakes). The grades in my opinion are: 21, 21, 20, 21, 22, 22/23. We split the top pitch in 2, there is a small grassy ledge just before the final corner. Climb up and clip extra bolt above and down to ledge to have 2 anchors for the stance. We carried up a few cams but found the bolts fine and had no need of them. Where it is run out, it is mostly easier climbing. You can ab down (with 2 60m ropes only) or scramble down the standard route.