Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

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Fool
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Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by Fool » Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:44 pm

About three weeks ago Arjan de Kock sent Masewatee at 8c+
In so doing, becoming the first South African to climb this grade and
giving the route its second assent. This year he sent Hulk (34, 8c) while in europe
and shortly after returning he sent Street Fighter (34, 8c)....

So stoked for you man!
MadMike

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Masewatee, 35

Post by illona » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:21 pm

Wow, that was very under the radar.

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Masewatee, 35

Post by M@ » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:30 pm

Under the radar indeed. Go Arjan! what a boychi...

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Masewatee, 35

Post by Fool » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:33 pm

Yes very sneaky.
MadMike

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Masewatee, 35

Post by PaulB » Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:47 pm

Ohhh, well... 'basically' he's done it... All except clipping the chains.... The story, as I remember it:

RP1: Arjan, as usual, stomps up the route in an awesome display of strength and finesse... falls on the crux... Goes up and changes his sequence at the chains (not the crux), deciding to use Matt's exit sequence (clipping the chains from below is a touch burly (or slimy if u use the sloper) plus climbing higher feels more complete). However, before working the exit sequence, he takes one draw off the chain meaning to place it on the last bolt (which he will now clip because of deck potential on the slab below)... You can guess what comes next....? After working the exit sequence (only like once!) he lowers off, pulls the rope, with the draw still there, dangling on his harness....

... Paul climbs, but is absolutely screwed from previous climbing and can no longer get past the crux to put the draw on... Offers to try and stick clip it from the slab but is declined (Arjan is an awesome sportsman, I don't think the prospect of falling because of some technicality bothered him much.. just another good burn on a route he loves) ...

RP2: Hop, skip and a jump and Arjan is past the crux, a couple moves below the chains! And looking as fresh as can be... Shakes out for a long while, moving the draw from one side of his harness to the other (planning to clip it still)... Eventually he goes for it, but decides to skip the bolt... and climbs into the -- insufficiently rehearsed -- moves above the chains... Basically, above the chains now, his foot pops, he holds the swing for a second and then is falling......

And I'm whacking in slack.... Arjan is penduling towards the slab behind him... and seems to impact! But his bum only hits a mound of debris, the entireity of which dislodges.... he's screaming heroically... I'm cowering in fear... debris is raining down the gully.... I'm thinking, he's safe but I'm about to be brained! Luckily, just assorted baboon turd, grass and dirt comes rolling down...

So that's the story... and unless he snuck in before he went up to Nambia, or we change our rules (urg) to include 'almost' topping out, he hasn't, in theory, done it... but God, he might as well have...

Another entertaining day out with Arjan... Always exciting... Shit I love elipsis...

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Masewatee, 35

Post by tygereye » Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:24 pm

What IS the criteria for finishing a route? Getting to the top of the line or complete it by clipping the chains?
Well done, Arjan! You got to the top and that's more than what anyone else can say!
Anyway, if this bugs you, you know you can go back and bag it any time :thumright
This is truly amazing to say the least

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Masewatee, 35

Post by proze » Tue Nov 10, 2009 12:57 pm

Clip the chains or top out, either way you can't fall doing it. He fell topping out, so it can't count as a send. He didn't add it to his 8a route log either, so apparently he agrees.

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Masewatee, 35

Post by BSpider » Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:37 pm

I agree with Proze. Just like you can't climb a route halfway, give it a grade and put it on your 8a scorecard like some people.

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by Fool » Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:38 pm

Thanks Paul for filling in the details of the day.

Arjan is not claiming it at all, hence the route being absent from his 8a score card.
I am claiming it for him and us. "Us" being the south african climbing community.
But
I'm not saying; "look how great Arjan is."
It's more like; "look at what is possible."
Be inspired! Not to climb a grade harder but try something 2 or 3 grades harder than your best.
Find beautiful lines that appeal to YOU and climb on them irrespective of grade. Look at Steve Bradshaw Snr's send of his long time project at the Mine, read his article in the Mountain Mag, Be inspired. Your body is capable of far more than your mind is willing to put it through - that must change.
If you see Arjan or one of the many strong local climbers working a project - don't sit and watch them. Get on the route, see how it feels!
When arjan was working streetfighter a girl (16yrs) from a school group that was passing through asked if she could try climb it, not knowing anything about climbing. He gave her a crash course in lead climbing and she made it up the first couple of bolts - bare feet!!! On until recently the hardest route in the country.
Don't let what you think you know confine you.

Please share the psyche
MadMike

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by DAcaveman » Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:07 pm

Mey Mike
Nogal cool vir 'n fool!

I like what u say, man! Keep it up!

j

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by M@ » Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:40 pm

Fool bru thats not right.
I'm totally inspired by Arjan's climbing and his sending Mazawattee is serious news, but you can't claim it if he hasn't claimed it. Unless he said you may spread the word you are spreading a rumour!

That kind of stuff can affect a persons reputation.
poor form.

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by Justin » Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:32 pm

With reputations, rumours, insight and everything else aside...
I asked Arajan about his last run on Mazawattee the day after:

"Yesterday you climbed above the chains of Mazawatte for the first time and then fell off without clipping the chains, because there was no quickdraw in place – and you carried on because you can top out on the route.
So how did you feel climbing route and then flailing at the top?"


Arajan: "Stoked! Just as if I had done the route".


For work reasons Arajan had to leave the country a couple of days later, no doubt he will be back to have another play on the route.
No one is claiming anything.
For now... it's just damn cool :afro:
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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by ClimbZA » Wed Nov 11, 2009 9:56 am

Here are some pics that we got whilst Arjan was attempting the route:

Image

Image

Image
View of Mazawattee from the outside. You can also clearly see the deck-able slab behind.

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by PaulB » Wed Nov 11, 2009 12:05 pm

Thanks Justin! Good pics... Oh so pretty... Something to keep me hanging on my fingerboard... hehe

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by Justin » Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:22 pm

Got a phone call from Arjan this afternoon... And I'm happy to announce that he has redpointed Mazawattee (and clipped the chains this time too!)

Mazawatte is South Africa's hardest Sport climb located at Jurassic Park in Montagu....The route was bolted by Sean Maasch in the 90's and stood for years as a project.

Matt Busch and Arjan de Kock spent a lot of energy working the route... then Adam Ondra made a flying visit to Montagu and sent the route on his 2nd go giving it a grade of 8c+.

Arjan had completed the route a couple of months ago but due to a quickdraw mishap (quickdraw missing from the chains) he was unable to clip and tried to top out (falling from the top would mean decking on the slab below).
After climbing past the chains he did fall off and narrowly missed injury from the slab below!

Arjan also sent Hulk (34/8c) Europe and Two To Win (aka: Street Fighter) (34/8c).

Arjan is really on top of his game right now, he's worked hard for it and it's a well deserved (2nd ascent)!
Congratulations Arjan!! :alien:
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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by Justin » Tue Oct 19, 2010 8:30 am

Jeff Ayliffe will hopefully be chatting with Arjan this morning at 08:36 on Cape Talk Sport this morning
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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by shorti » Tue Oct 19, 2010 8:45 am

Well done! Did anyone perhaps capture it on video?

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by tygereye » Tue Oct 19, 2010 4:23 pm

Well done Arjan - now nobody can moan about you not clipping the top chains !
Proud of you!

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Re: Arjan de Kock, Mazawattee, 35

Post by myself » Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:11 pm

AWESOME!!!!!!!! good work :thumleft:

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