Visiting Climber....Boven in October?

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David Trippett
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Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 7:17 am

Visiting Climber....Boven in October?

Post by David Trippett » Mon Sep 22, 2008 7:46 am

Hi all,

I'm visiting South Africa from Canada for the first time in October. I hope to spend a bit of time climbing. I think I'll only have a week and I was hoping to make it to Boven for a few days of cragging. I manage to climb trad to 25/26 and sport a bit harder on occasion when I'm sober or not having an epic. I guess my main questions are what's the "standard rack" at Boven for traditionally protected routes? Is a 60m rope OK? Are there places to stay near the crag? How's the weather in October? How easy is it to find keen partners?

Well, thanks guys...I can't wait to check out the rock. It looks AMAZING in the photos! If anyone is coming to Squamish, drop me a line and I'll do my best to help make you feel at home.

Cheers! :thumleft:


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Re: Visiting Climber....Boven in October?

Post by Flex » Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:36 am

Hi David,

Boven is awesome -you're gonna love it! There are a few trad routes there but I would stick to the hundreds of sport routes while in Boven. A 60m rope will be fine for most of the routes but there are some routes where a 70m is necessary.

As far as finding partners goes, you will definitely have no problem on weekends. As for durong the week, you should be ok too, but no guarantees. When in October will you be there? I will be spending a week there from 3 October to 9 October.


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Re: Visiting Climber....Boven in October?

Post by Gustav » Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:44 am

'Boven is predominantly a sport area (world-class might I add!), 14 quickdraws will do and a 60m rope is good for 99% of the routes.

The trad in this area, although single pitch, is actually very good and mostly well protected (just bring nuts and 6-8 cams (more small ones). On a short visit, I would not bother with trad though.
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Re: Visiting Climber....Boven in October?

Post by noki » Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:19 am

What a pity. You'll just have missed the Boven Rock Rally 25-27 Sept. Anyway, I haven't done trad in Boven for the last decade (Haven't been to Boven much in the last decade, come to think of it). So my memory might be a bit rusty. But I would say a full (single) set of nuts and a standard set of cams would do just fine. On most (!) trad routes there, gear is easy to find and not run out. You can leave the monster cams and the micro cams at home quite safely, I would think, and the hexes would be a waste. And yip, a 60m single will get you up most of the ruotes quite well.
I see that Gustav has also replied, he would defintely be the guy to talk to.
Check the new routes on the wiki for route info, and Gustav has a nice RD with all the older routes...
Enjoy it.

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