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straightlining cedarberg corner

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:08 pm
by shorti
At the bottom of cedarbergkloof (about 20-30m from the junction with Lower Tonqauni) on the true left is a bunch of written up routes, but I can't find the most obvious line in the RD. When you scramble up towards Golden Balls, you'll see a little cave to your left, about 10m up from the river. This is surely the cave described in Cedarberg Corner. The problem is this is just about the only thing I recognise in the description. Some of the other route descriptions in the area mentions bits and pieces I can recognise, but they all threw me off by completely wrong grades or mentions of roofs, traverses and loose rock or distances that doesn't make sense.

So, here is a description of what I'm talking about. I would appreciate it if someone recognises it and tell me whatever you have to tell about it. I think it is a brilliant and obvious route that deserves a proper writing up.

From the cave mentioned in Cedarberg Corner, climb straight up through the cave, exiting it slightly to the left. Climb straight up just right of a corner (small left face facing Lower Tonquani) on good rock with good friction, passing 2 or 3 small trees and a piton or 2). Eventually you'll see a positive smooth slab with a biggish crack running straight up it towards the left. The slab faces lower Tonqauni and I've climbed it before, but the rock above it is a little loose and unpleasant. Eventually you'll get to the left edge of the face that hosts Golden Balls's last pitch. Here you'll find a really good layback crack with great hex placements. Above that it get easy enough to scramble to the top. You can reach the top in one long rope length pitch if you can manage to minimise rope drag. The line is pretty straight up and the quality is really good and consistent. I would guess the grade at 14 maybe 15 and I reckon it is over all a better climb than Golden Balls.

Re: straightlining cedarberg corner

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:23 pm
by iank
Sounds like Cederberg corner, just follow the super clean rock to the top after stepping left at the Cave. Best 12 in the Kloofs if you ask me. You can step left at a really good jam crack higher up and pull through a roof if you want to add some spice. There is no point in ever scrambling out of Frog gully ever again.


Re: straightlining cedarberg corner

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:38 pm
by shorti
Cool, thanks Ian. The map in the guide is wrong then, because it shows the route down stream of golden balls. And the description has too many traverses in it for my liking. It also doesn't mention the nice layback crack at the top. Maybe it was lost in 30's climbing talk translation. I see at the bottom is a note mentioning a variation straight up the cave. The guide grades it as a 10! We sure did get soft (and you just said 12 to sound bad ass, admit it :mrgreen: ). Ok, I'm happy and I agree it is the best way to get out.