Beta for After Burn @ Bronkies

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:19 am

Beta for After Burn @ Bronkies

Post by edmclen » Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:48 am

After a lovely wet morning of shamelessly flailing on the opening moves of After Burn, I thought I'd try to engage the collective wisdom of the forum on the beta.
My failed strategy was to use the small, awkward sidepull above the slopey crimp, both left of the first bolt. I could barely hold onto the sidepull with my left hand long enough to get my feet up, let alone launch for the good crimp a meter-ish higher. Maybe when it's drier, I'll be able to use the lower slopey crimp with my right hand to get the good left-hand sidepull, but that seems pretty desperate as well.
As I did not have too much trouble with Rat Kid or Once There Were Warriors, I was a bit surprised by how much harder I found After Burn.
NB-Not sure if it matters for this route's beta in particular, but I'm fairly short.

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