Short routes ethics at the mine

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
Iain
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 3:23 pm
Location: Paarl

Short routes ethics at the mine

Postby Iain » Sun Apr 26, 2009 9:44 am

I’ve noticed that the one bolt wonders at the mine don’t have top anchors.

I’m guessing that the cleaning procedure is: Jump, unclip and jump again (perhaps with a crash pad).

My question is from a crag-specific ethics perspective: Is grabbing the lip of the short wall (under control – of course) OK, or do you need to top out to claim an ascent.
Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso

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XMod
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Real Name: Greg Hart

Re: Short routes ethics at the mine

Postby XMod » Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:46 pm

Just bring a bouldering mat and a big friend to spot you the bolts are a bit of a waste. You can traverse off rightwards to the end of the ledge to get off.

If youre leading bring clipstick to clean with - or jump!

Iain
Posts: 113
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 3:23 pm
Location: Paarl

Re: Short routes ethics at the mine

Postby Iain » Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:59 pm

Does that mean that the routes are top-outs if you're leading them?
Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso

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XMod
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Re: Short routes ethics at the mine

Postby XMod » Tue Apr 28, 2009 8:08 pm

I think that was the original intention, but Ive only ever bouldered them. Im sure slapping the lip is sufficient to claim a send on most, its just a mantle move youre leaving out, not exactly a hard move!

Heinrich
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Re: Short routes ethics at the mine

Postby Heinrich » Tue Apr 28, 2009 10:55 pm

The fact is, if there are no top anchors, top-out is the only acceptable way of finishing the route. Faberge (in Fernkloof) used to be like that, but anchors were only added later on. It follows then that grabbing the lip is not sufficient - when one boulders it is very rare not to top out, and if the top-out is really as easy as Xmod says it is, why not just go through the very little extra effort and top out? It'll spare a debate.

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XMod
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Re: Short routes ethics at the mine

Postby XMod » Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:56 am

Topping out would be the ethically pure way to finish for sure, especially if boudering. On that part of the Mine this then entails walking all the way rightwards to the end of the ledge downclimbing and walking back. I guess Ive always viewed visits to the Mine as just training and - Im lazy! :)

Now to shake off this extended lazy spell and actually get fit enough to visit the Mine again! But thats another story. Psyched to climb again!


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