Info - A Private Universe

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
AJS
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:58 pm
Real Name: Andrew Scott

Info - A Private Universe

Postby AJS » Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:42 pm

I am planning to climb 'A Private Universe' in Du Toitskloof at the end of Feb.
I have a description of the pitches but that is all. I am looking for any other information and tips outs there...Drawing/Picture of the route, Gear requirements, Walk In description ect.
Thanks Andrew

User avatar
Justin
Posts: 3208
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu
Contact:

Re: Info - A Private Universe

Postby Justin » Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:14 pm

View the Private Universe Topo on the Wiki

Post some pics in the gallery of the route - very keen to see what it looks like.
Enjoy :D
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

User avatar
emile
Posts: 727
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:41 am
Real Name: OneDog

Re: Info - A Private Universe

Postby emile » Thu Feb 12, 2009 8:07 am

Photos & feedback please?! - from the RD it sounds delicious.

JonoJ
Posts: 379
Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:30 pm
Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
Location: Cape Town

Re: Info - A Private Universe

Postby JonoJ » Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:08 am

Pack light.
Take good rain gear.
Be as self-sufficient as possible (spare torch/cell batteries, spare fuel for stove, extra nutrition, 2-way radio helps)
Walk through the river in light shoes - much less hassle than negotiating a dry route.
Take spare socks.
Collect the bulk of your water from the last waterfall (marked by an old rope on the scramble) before the scree.
Vasbyt with the load to the base.
Expect lots of fighting with the pig on the first three pitches.
Expect at least one person to pee on the pig.
No faffing on the wall.
Be comfy climbing in the dark if necessary.
Tell WSAR that you're going.
Be amazed at the jaw-dropping beauty of the amphitheater!!!
Enjoy!

:thumleft:

Hilton
Posts: 243
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Info - A Private Universe

Postby Hilton » Mon Feb 16, 2009 5:26 pm

Hi Andrew,

Gosia and her partner wrote a story of their ascent. Check it out at:

http://www.capemountaintours.co.za/inde ... 37,0,0,1,0

The walk-out is quite a mission. Either 15 kilometres over the back to Bain's Kloof Pass else down to the col on the north side then back into the valley that you came from. This involves a long, exposed scramble. The first version is longer but easier. The second one is quite hard but a lot shorter.

Tony Dick, Tienie Versveld, Dave Birkett, Leo Rust and Snort turned one pitch from the top and rapped the wall. Pity, because the last pitch is so dramatic. The ab is complicated because you have to put gear in to stay close to the wall, otherwise you end up far out in space. Dave told me that he shat himself going off Tienie's thin ab cord 550m off the deck.

We put a comprehensive story in SA Mountain Magazine issue no.4. Also MCSA journal 2002 or 2003.

Have a good one Andrew!

User avatar
Justin
Posts: 3208
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 8:31 am
Real Name: Justin Lawson
Location: Montagu
Contact:

Re: Info - A Private Universe

Postby Justin » Mon Feb 16, 2009 5:31 pm

FYI: If the link above does not display properly, view it with Internet Explorer.
Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

AJS
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2007 1:58 pm
Real Name: Andrew Scott

Re: Info - A Private Universe

Postby AJS » Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:58 pm

thanks for all the tips...it looks like this is going to be an amazing climb

Hilton
Posts: 243
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Info - A Private Universe

Postby Hilton » Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:27 pm

Andrew, a few more things:
1. A couple of etriers would be useful.
2. A wall hauler or some other device for hauling the sack. Our master hauler was Matt Sim who was wired using jumars, etriers, his body weight and pullies for doing the thing. But he still got trashed.
3. Take a seperate haul line.
4. The halfway bivvy ledge sleeps two on a sloping rocky ledge. I used a thin little ledge that I could just fit on, off to the right. Very dramatic position and very comfy. There's also a ledge around the corner to the left. I'm going to try to attach a photo that David took looking down between his legs. You see the blue ledge tarp. Then you can just make out the ledge to the right. On the left you can see me catching zeds on the ledge at the start of the next pitch. It's from this point that the climbing really warms up. Ten pitches done, ten to go.
5. A good way to do the route would be to walk up (3 hours) and do the first half of the climb on Day One. Day Two is the next ten pitches and the descent. No need to have a night at the base of the wall. Besides, you could have a really lousy night after seeing what you're going on to. Like sleeping at the base of a big alpine wall. Just arrive and do it.
If I think of anything else I'll say so.

Hilton
Posts: 243
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Info - A Private Universe

Postby Hilton » Fri Feb 20, 2009 6:33 pm

I couldn't figure this process out but Kieren's now sorted it for me. Here's the picture I referred to.
Attachments
A Private Universe lower half.JPG
A Private Universe lower half.JPG (20.99 KiB) Viewed 647 times


Return to “Beta Section”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest