Magical Mystery Tour

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
Post Reply
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 10:03 am

Magical Mystery Tour

Post by Pony » Thu Aug 21, 2008 2:41 pm

Hi guys
Has anyone done this route on Cogman's Buttress in Montagu?
Any feedback on route quality,runouts,and whether one can ab off with a 60m rope?


Posts: 147
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 8:17 am

Re: Magical Mystery Tour

Post by brolloks » Thu Aug 21, 2008 3:02 pm

due to a previous 'nice day out on c-buttress gone almost terribly wrong', adhere to my speeedy reply...

one 60m rope is enough, so you do nice and neat 30m absails all the way... 2 ropes = 2 much rope drag... some nice stances, normal multy-pitch rules apply...enjoy...

you have one mouth, two ears. listen more...

User avatar
Posts: 246
Joined: Tue May 17, 2005 9:06 am
Location: Cape Town

Re: Magical Mystery Tour

Post by Rastaman » Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:15 pm

Hey Pony,

Magical Mystery Tour is cool, good quality route, not much runouts at all, newish bolts.
Stances are fine as well. Whats it graded these days 18 or 19? I guess the topish pitch could be 19 if you factor in the tiredness factor.
I would take 2 ropes if in-experienced in multi-pitch climbing. Depends how many people are climbing it.
Don't skip any stances when abbing off (learnt this the hard way!).
Start early and enjoy. It can get (*&^%$) hot.
As somebody said to me before I climbed it "you get that big mountain feel."
Wear a helmet, and make sure that everybody else does too.

Post Reply