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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 376
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
As much as I love torn shins and bundu-ing through those soft-as-silk forests of climber's friend...... I'd rather not do it again!

I haven't yet done the Cogman's sport routes, but would be very keen to use the ab anchors the next time I head up EF. Are they fairly easy to spot from the top?

Cheers
Jono


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:57 am 
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Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 7:25 am
Posts: 235
Location: Durban
Real Name: Russell Warren
Hi Jono

I climbed the sport route \"Another day in Paradise\" and then \"Eagles Folly\" the next day. I don't think abbing off the sport route is really a great idea. The anchors are not at the top of the buttress so it is going to take some finding I would think. Even if you do find the anchors it is seven abseils to the ground unless your trad ropes are twin 60s and then it is 4 abseils. In my view it is simpler just to climb in long pants and take the same walk down without the climbers friend pain. I thought the worst part of the walk down was to the neck between the 2 buttresses anyway. It also simplifies gear logistics so you can walk in to the base of the climb in boots and leave them at the base.

Regards

Russell


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:03 am 
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:30 pm
Posts: 376
Location: Cape Town
Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
Hiya Russel

Ja, agreed... the decent from the summit to the neck is pretty gnarly. Seemingly stable blocks just slip and slide underfoot! Lots could go wrong there at the end of a tiring day. I was far more on edge decending that bit than climbing!! From the neck to the base is pretty straight forward, ableit scratchy bundu-bashing.... long pants a definite advantage!

Want to help me rig a foofie slide from the top to Stuart's pool some day??
Will be worth all the effort!! Haha :)


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