8th Pitch: The start is serious and requires careful climbing on dodgy rock but one soon attains easier rock with bomber gear especially under the roof. At the roof one pulls through to reach a ledge and there is a slot at the back. Find it! Move quickly though this move with your left hand in the slot – its hard but you are safe!. Then you can rest and even make a stance if you are shattered.
Climb up to the first bolt, clip it and then come down again to rest if needed. The crux is climbing up past the last bolt which I have subsequently freed on lead. It is very difficult and unnecessary clipping the last bolt. And there is also small alien (purple) placement which is easier to place than to clip the bolt as you are in a lay back position with the bolt behind you. Get the rail and place a good medium cam. Railing left is very strenuous. This pitch is 25 to free!
9th Pitch is probably 19 or even 20 but straight forward with good pro and actually quite an excellent pitch even though it’s on that gray gnarly rock.
I have climbed this route at least 6 times. It’s excellent!
Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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