Top Trad lines in ZA

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Justin
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Top Trad lines in ZA

Postby Justin » Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:40 pm

A list of best Trad routes in ZA - Any grade, anything goes, can have a bolt here or there but must be primarily Trad

(I'm going to keep on editing my list (below) with suggestions that are made)

Wolfberg
Energy Crisis 20
Celestial Journey 22
Alone in Space 22

Tafelberg:
Big Groove 20
Comes a Time 20
Baboon Speak 21
Rooibosch (18')

Krakadouw:
King Kong 21/22
Ichthyasaurus 21/22
Austrolopethicus

Table Mountain
Triple Indirect
Jacobs Ladder 17
Roulette 19
African Lunch 23
Magnetic Wall 19
Atlantic Crag
The Dream

Lions Head granite
Millions (18)
Bastille Crack (20)

Lion's Head Sandstone
Clifton Crest (16)

Lakeside Pinnacle
Crack of Dawn (17)

Muizenberg Crag
Crackle
No Name Brand
Understairs and Dilettante

Du Toits Kloof
Exposure in the F Major
Armageddon Time
Renaissance

Hellfire
Hellfire (the route) 24
Burnout

Montagu
Technicolour Darkness [area closed]
Nuclear Waste [area closed]

Karbonaaitjieskraal:
Rastarock
Divine Dog

Blouberg:
Eight Miles High (24)
Dog Day in Heaven (25/6)
Hey Jude

Magaliesberg:
Mhalbs: Space Walk (21)
Upper Tonquani: Last Rites (19)
Cedarberg: Boggle (19)
Boulder: Dogstyle (23)
Kranskloof: The Cruise (22)
Hourglass (F2/15) (in Lower Tonquani)

Mary (E Cape):
The Legend (26)

Wilgepoort:
The Key (21)

Paarl Rocks
Stem Gem - 22

Yellowwood:
No more bells

The Berg:

The North Face Route on Sentinel Peak (also called the Angus-Leppan Route).
Devil's Tooth.
Mponjwana, Standard Route.
The Bell, Hoper's Route.
The Pyramid, Standard Route.
The Column, Escarpment Arête.
The Monk's Cowl, Standard and Barry's Route.
The Injasuti Western Triplet, North West Ridge Route.
Giant's Castle, Schole's Route.
Giant's Castle, Makaza and the Main Loteni Couloir (ice routes).

Not so auto (on Monks cowl)

Boven:
Heart of China

Monteseel
Powderfinger
Fiddler in the roof
Granny's souped up wheelchair

Pinnacle Gorge
Lycra Trea
Por_noster
Slow ecstasy
Snip Snip
Fingercrack
Think Pink

Nagas Gorge
Old man's ecstasy
Moonjig

Lady Slipper
MacKegnie's madness
Twinkletoes
Flashdance

Hogsback
Fame and fashion

Both gorges in EC
Last edited by Justin on Tue Oct 16, 2007 2:44 pm, edited 13 times in total.
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jeff
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Postby jeff » Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:47 pm

Hiya

Maybe add Roulette to table mountain? :D

JonoJ
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Real Name: Jonathan Joseph
Location: Cape Town

Postby JonoJ » Mon Oct 15, 2007 1:12 pm

If easy grades aren't an issue, I'd definitely suggest adding Africa Crag to Table Mountain. As far as setting and exposure, and good clean fun go, it's a treat!

Muizenberg Crag
Crackle
No Name Brand

Hector
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:21 pm

Postby Hector » Mon Oct 15, 2007 1:25 pm

Blouberg:
Take Psycho Reptile off the list (bush/choss). Add Eight Miles High (24) and (by all accounts, havent done it myself) Dog Day in Heaven (25/6).

Magalies:
Mhalbs: Space Walk (21)
Upper Tonquani: Last Rites (19)
Cedarberg: Boggle (19)
Boulder: Dogstyle (23)
Kranskloof: The Cruise (22)

Mary (E Cape):
The Legend (26)

Wilgepoort:
The Key (21)

Havent been to Krakadouw but its sounds like there's some amazing routes there?

scottnoy
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Postby scottnoy » Mon Oct 15, 2007 1:31 pm

Paarl Rocks
Stem Gem - 22

Gadget
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Location: SA

Postby Gadget » Mon Oct 15, 2007 1:58 pm

Take a look at the discussion on 10 Ten SA Classics (mixed with sport climbs too)

Some \"old\" transvaal lists from saclimb:

http://www.saclimb.co.za/magaliesberg/classics.html

http://www.saclimb.co.za/gautengother/old_tvlclassics.html

Gadget
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Location: SA

Postby Gadget » Mon Oct 15, 2007 2:01 pm

The MCSA KZN section web site reports: (http://kzn.mcsa.org.za/mteer.html)

The main Classic Berg routes are:
    The North Face Route on Sentinel Peak (also called the Angus-Leppan Route).
    Devil's Tooth.
    Mponjwana, Standard Route.
    The Bell, Hoper's Route.
    The Pyramid, Standard Route.
    The Column, Escarpment Arête.
    The Monk's Cowl, Standard and Barry's Route.
    The Injasuti Western Triplet, North West Ridge Route.
    Giant's Castle, Schole's Route.
    Giant's Castle, Makaza and the Main Loteni Couloir (ice routes).

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MargheritaIntrona
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Postby MargheritaIntrona » Mon Oct 15, 2007 2:51 pm

Lion's Head Sandstone
Clifton Crest (16)
:wink:

Stephen
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:16 pm

Postby Stephen » Mon Oct 15, 2007 3:22 pm

Krakadouw:

King Kong 21/22
Ichthyasaurus 21/22

Table Mountain:

African Lunch 23
Magnetic Wall 19

Tafelberg:
Big Groove 20
Comes a Time 20
Baboon Speak 21

maximus
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Location: Cape Town

Postby maximus » Mon Oct 15, 2007 4:20 pm

Understairs and Dilettante at Muizenberg are definite candidates!!!!

Brussel
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Postby Brussel » Mon Oct 15, 2007 4:46 pm

best trad lines I have climbed:

TM:
Jacobs ladder
Roulette
Triple indirect

Yellowwood:
No more bells

BAbycoat
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:53 pm

Postby BAbycoat » Tue Oct 16, 2007 4:31 am

Exposure

SNORT
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Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Best trad lines? How subjective can you get?

Postby SNORT » Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:52 am

Be that as it may popularity and context must feature in any decision.
Where is Monteseel in this list. Hallucination and Pin-up! Magaliesberg has got hundreds of quality classics and must-do's. Red Corner, Hyperaedrenia, The Moke etc.etc.

Du Toit's: Exposure in F must be the steepest, finest route of it's grade in South Africa. And you can't leave out Armageddon Time and Renaissance.

Hellfire crag has several must-do's not the least of which is Burnout and Hellfire.

On the Ledge Jacobs Ladder is a no-brainer as are Atlantic Crag, The Dream and many others.

Montagu: Technicolour Darkness and Nuclear Waste must be included.

Wilgepoort has many superb routes and The Key must be in.

Krakadouw: Austrolopethicus.

Blouberg: Hey Jude is the most do-able route there for moderate climbers and has some brilliant pitches and my first recommendation for a first visit. The other good routes are much harder.

Karbonaaitjieskraal: Rastarock, Divine Dog ....

The list goes on and on.

A better way of doing this is to first select a climbing area and then rate 3 or more routes of easy, moderate and hard as \"must do's\". So grade 17 or less, grade 18 to 21 or so and then Grade 21 and harder....

douard
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Postby douard » Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:33 am

i was thinking something along the lines of what Guy did in his western cape crags books. Besides the obvious star rating he had a 10 day visit and 30 day visit. obviously to the cape but maybe we can use an idea like this for all areas. If you only have one day to go to a crag what are the must do's. If you're going somewhere for a week then what else is there to do?

For example, like Snort said, hey jude is a must do in blouberg and then look at other lines.

I think this list is a great idea. It certainly gives you perspective on what others think are great lines.

douard
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Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:48 pm

Postby douard » Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:38 am

Boven

not that i have done it but i hear it's an awesome line, \"Heart of China\"

Drakensberg,

\"Not so auto\" on Monks cowl, a route that shouldn't have the rep it does and deserves loads more ascents.

Monteseel
Powderfinger
Fiddler in the roof
Granny's souped up wheelchair

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MargheritaIntrona
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Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:11 pm

Postby MargheritaIntrona » Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:45 am

Well Justin seeing as you said anything goes for this list, maybe you have space on it for the following line:

Lakeside Pinnacle
Crack of Dawn (17)

:)

paddy
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Joined: Wed May 04, 2005 4:17 pm

Postby paddy » Tue Oct 16, 2007 11:34 am

I would agree with Russ's list of Magaliesberg classics on saclimb (see link above) although I would add Hourglass (F2) in Lower Tonquani to that list.

Also what about Millions (18') and Bastille Crack (20) at Lions Head granite and Rooibosch (18') at Tafelberg.

DBez
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 1:40 pm

Postby DBez » Tue Oct 16, 2007 12:59 pm

Pinnacle Gorge
Lycra Trea
Por_noster
Slow ecstasy
Snip Snip
Fingercrack
Think Pink

Nagas Gorge
Old man's ecstasy
Moonjig

Lady Slipper
MacKegnie's madness
Twinkletoes
Flashdance

Hogsback
Fame and fashion

Both gorges in EC

Iain
Posts: 113
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 3:23 pm
Location: Paarl

Re: Top Trad lines in ZA

Postby Iain » Sun Apr 26, 2009 10:05 am

Resurecting an old thread.

Cedarberg Tafelberg:
The Frontal
Human Highway
Comes A Time

Wolfberg:
Celestial Journey

Table Mountain:
Jacobs
Staircase
Frazers
Bombay Duck
Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso

voytek
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Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:57 am

Re: Top Trad lines in ZA

Postby voytek » Mon Apr 27, 2009 10:08 am

Hello

I was just wandering - are all these ratings based upon quality of climbing, setting, and the walk-in/out standards etc... or just comments on personal achievement.
For people who seek advice on routes to do this could be misleading.
For example, taking some of the longer routes into the account:
Exposure in F-major- I agree the setting is spectacular and all - but it must be the most incorrectly named route in ZA; Minimum exposure factor- mossy rock - s***t load of scrambling- and plenty more walking. My advice is to bring a boulder matt along so when you top out quickly - you can do some quality bouldering on your long hike down...
Or a paraglider and try to beat the just over 2 hours (if i remember correctly) carpark to carpark record. :pirat:

I think a route rating should be proportionate to the effort you put into getting there,quality of rock , sustained-ededness :roll: of the climbing, walk out etc.
Exposure in F maj - uhm- not the best trad route ofits grade around- maybe some consider it a classic -but hey different srokes... :cyclops: We want to know of the best routes around - not of the names of the routes okes have done... :mrgreen:
be safe

george nel
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:12 am

Re: Top Trad lines in ZA

Postby george nel » Sat May 02, 2009 2:29 pm

Hi Guys,

What about where it all started 24th October 1885,Towerkop!!
Classics like Nefdt,Jacksons and Ed February's Trilogy to name just a few!
C'mon guys,get your gear packed and get your behinds up that beautiful piece of rock!

Iain
Posts: 113
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 3:23 pm
Location: Paarl

Re: Top Trad lines in ZA

Postby Iain » Mon May 04, 2009 8:09 pm

Absolutely!!
Next year is 125 years since Neft opened his route on Toverkop - in socks (his boots were slipping in the rain).
I hear that a meet is planned at Toverkop to celebrate Neft's route's anniversary.
Inspiration exists, but it must find you working. – Pablo Picasso


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