Faith, Hope and Charity - Pakhuis Pass

Swop tips on moves, route conditions, etc.
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Hann
Posts: 632
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:44 am

Faith, Hope and Charity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Hann » Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:38 am

Does anybody have a copy of Faith, Hope and Charity route guide?

Is there another topo other than the "Book of Lies"?

Please.
Last edited by Hann on Mon Apr 06, 2015 1:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Willem
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 3:11 pm
Location: Cape Town

Re: Hope & Trinity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Willem » Thu Apr 02, 2015 9:17 am

Just sent you an email. Can't help with the RD, but maybe we can go climbing if you're around over Easter.

Willem
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 3:11 pm
Location: Cape Town

Re: Hope & Trinity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Willem » Thu Apr 02, 2015 2:16 pm

Turns out I emailed the wrong person. Also only have the Book of Lies. But am in the northern Cederberg over Easter, would be keen to go explore the Pakhuis Pas traditional climbing. PM me if you are around this weekend and looking for a partner.

Hilton
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Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:23 pm

Re: Hope & Trinity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Hilton » Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:01 pm

Hey Hann
Guy and I did a fantastic route on the middle buttress:

Wild at Heart, 25
Start: Hope Buttress has two big grey open books in the top half. We are interested in the right hand one. From the clump of pines walk up the left side of the valley between Hope and Charity Buttresses. Avoid the first broken band of rock and on the ledge above it head out left to the very long overhang. The route starts about 8m before the left-hand end of the overhang at a cairn.
Pitch 1 15m 21: Get off the ground at the big white dot on the rock. Meander up and left to stance at the lip of the overhang on the left at the cascade of creepers;
Pitch 2 20m 20: Go through the right-hand break in the overlaps above. Continue up to the big ledge system at the base of the beautiful, blunt orange arête with the yellow-white streak;
Pitch 3 25m 25: Start up the yellow-white streak on orange rock up to the roofs. Continue up directly on grey rock through the overlaps and then up the grey arête to a ledge.
Pitch 4 40m 25: Start at the back of the ledge then head out rightwards to gain the arête proper. Continue up the arête to the top (world-class).
First ascent: Guy Paterson-Jones and Hilton Davies, 12 July 2014

I have the RD of Butterfinger Crisp if you want it. It's also in the book of lies. Also good.

bests
Hilton

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Justin
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Real Name: Justin Lawson
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Re: Hope & Trinity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Justin » Fri Apr 03, 2015 6:58 am

Climb ZA - Administrator
justin@climbing.co.za

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Hann
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Re: Faith, Hope and Charity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Hann » Mon Apr 06, 2015 1:23 pm

Thanks gents.

Hilton,
25 on trad is out of my grade. (Maybe miellie pap will help)
Thanks anyhow.

Justin,
Would it be possible/accepted to upload a .pdf copy of "Book of Lies" onto Climb.ZA?

I have a scanned copy I could mail you.

scottnoy
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Re: Faith, Hope and Charity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby scottnoy » Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:30 am

2 new (ish) routes on Faith buttress....

Red Moon Rising 17 Scott Noy & Danie Moolman 2010
Spur-of-the-moment route, started climbing at 4pm and did the last 'crux' pitch in the dark. Thanks Danie for being psyched for this little adventure!!

Approach: 30mins
Park at the 2nd pull-out as you drive down the Afterpakhuis side of the pass. Walk-up towards the large cliff with a obvious diagonal corner system splitting the wall. The 1st pitch starts from a wild-olive tree.

Climbing: 2-3hrs
P1: 14 (10m): From the tree climb up 10m to a large ledge.
P2: Scramble (30m): Traverse 30m right along the ledge
P3: 14 (?m): Climb up diagonally right towards a small tree and stance to the left of a sandy corner.
P4: 16 (?m): Climb up then trav right passed a bush and up 7m to good stance below an orange face.
P5: 15 (?m): Climb up and left to a tree then up and right to a small stance below a large crack.
P6: 17 (?m): Climb up the face to the right of the crack. CLASSIC!

Walk-out: 1.30hrs
Scramble up the gulley exiting out right. Walk up right for 10 min then diagonally down to the right to the start of a large gulley that leads down towards the 2nd bend in the road. Walk down to the rightside of the gulley.

Die Boer, die Bier, en die Koala 20 Scott, Uwe & Mike 2010

Approach: 30/40mins
Park at the 2nd pull-out as you drive down the Afterpakhuis side of the pass. Walk-up towards the large cliff with a obvious diagonal corner system splitting the wall. Start to the right of the obvious diagonal feature of the wall, about 50m to the right of the olive tree that marks the start of Red Moon Rising.

Climbing: 2-3hrs
Follows the obvious diagonal corner system.
P1: bad rock, finish left?
P2: boulder up left?
P3: Climb up left?
P4: Climb up left?
P5: 20 (30m): Climb straight up. "Stellar pitch!"

Walk-out: 1.30hrs
Scramble up the gulley exitting out right. Walk up right for 10 min then diagonally down to the right to the start of a large gulley that leads down towards the 2nd bend in the road. Walk down to the right of the gulley.

Lubags
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Real Name: Marllu da Conceicao

Re: Faith, Hope and Charity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Lubags » Mon Apr 20, 2015 11:37 am

can someone please send me a route guide for this place? im planning a trip to Rocklands and just wondering whether its worthwhile to take my trad gear.

thanks

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Hann
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Re: Faith, Hope and Charity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Hann » Mon Apr 20, 2015 12:51 pm

Inbox me your email address.
I'll mail you the pdf.

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Forket
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Re: Faith, Hope and Charity - Pakhuis Pass

Postby Forket » Tue Apr 21, 2015 1:21 am

Lubags, there are more routes to be tradded in rocklands then you can do in your life. Bring your rack
eT


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