Yellowwood photo topo and RDs

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Hilton
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Yellowwood photo topo and RDs

Post by Hilton » Sun Feb 07, 2010 3:09 pm

In the Routes section is a photo topo of routes on Yellowwood. Anyone following the line for Time Warp would be mostly opening a new route. It is way off. Anyone following the RD for Time Warp is going to be way lost.

The photo topo line for the top two pitches of Fighting the Dark Side of Gravity needs to be further right.

The separate photo topo for Prime Time Direct is accurate.

Justin I know that beginners get to crank hard on sport routes very early on, but still, does snorty's Sponsorship Money thread really belong in Beginners Corner? I guess I'm softer than I thought...

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ScottS
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Re: Yellowwood photo topo and RDs

Post by ScottS » Mon Feb 08, 2010 7:32 am

Hilton wrote:Justin I know that beginners get to crank hard on sport routes very early on, but still, does snorty's Sponsorship Money thread really belong in Beginners Corner? I guess I'm softer than I thought...
Nothing to do with Justin :) That's where SNORT chose to post it...
At the chaaaaains boet!!

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Justin
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Re: Yellowwood photo topo and RDs

Post by Justin » Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:25 am

Thanks Scott, I have moved into the Area Updates & New Routes

Thanks for the heads up Hilton - anyone out there who would be keen draw up another RD (to replace the existing (incorrect) one?
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justin@climbing.co.za

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XMod
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Re: Yellowwood photo topo and RDs

Post by XMod » Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:46 pm

Hi HIlton I posted the topo, it is at present just a rough sketch and needs refinement, interestingly the Bavarians route is marked by themselves since I got that photo off Climbing.com and added the other lines in as best I could from the grainy tiny black and white photos I could find of the place.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, Im very happy to potter away and fix the lines. We also need better photos of the place so if anyone has a good high res representation of the wall please get in touch with me. Im hoping to catch a lift in a helicopter sometime soon which should provide awesome pics of the whole valley and beyond. Will put up Malcolm and Roberts route and 'No More Bells' soon if Mal hasn't already done it.

Hilton
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Re: Yellowwood photo topo and RDs

Post by Hilton » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:23 pm

Good one Greg, 'preciate it.

RD for Time Warp:

Time Warp (21) **

The route takes the obvious large crack line-break up the middle of the amphitheatre directly above the huge sundowner rock which is in the clump of trees at the foot of the wall in the centre of the amphitheatre. The route does not start at this point however, but about 50m to the left. Traverse left and downwards along the base of the wall to get to a campsite with two accommodation areas. The route starts between the two small sleeping areas and is just a couple of metres to the left of the Newborn bolt line. The route ascends for about 65m and then traverses rightwards for about 50m to arrive in the main crackline directly above the sundowner rock about 60m up.

1: 30m (14) Climb broken grey rock tending slightly to the right.
2: 20m (16) Climb a tricky face and continue up the corner on the right to a big ledge below a roof. Two bolts on a Newborn stance are found here.
3: 15m (18) Climb up to the roof and through it on the right where Newborn bolts are encountered. Move up to a good stance at the start of the obvious long traverse-line.
4: 20m (17) Traverse airily to the right to reach slabs. Move up to the rail at the top of the slabs and continue right until reaching a thin handrail. Two bolts on a Your Mother His Face stance are encountered here.
5: 15m (20) The ‘Handrail Pitch’. Traverse very airily right on clean rock at the level of the stance. Continue railing along a narrow ledge with thorny vegetation. Get up and move right to the end of a ledge where a fixed nut and original piton are found. This is also the stance for Prime Time Direct which moves straight up from here.
6: 20m (20) The ‘Non-Handrail Pitch’. From the stance descend to the right down a large slab for a few metres. Traverse to the right underneath the slab and round the corner into a spectacular situation. Descend another 2 or 3 metres then rail airily right until reaching a small standing-stance in the main crack-line. Originally F3/A2.
7: 35m (18) Climb the crack to the large protruding nose then move left onto the nose and up.
8: 35m (17) Climb the crack using the left-hand edge.
9: 15m (16) Continue up the crack to the halfway ledge.
10: 30m (18) Climb the crack to a roof with a wormhole to reach a good hidden stance.
11: 30m (20) Climb the crack a bit more desperately.
12: 30m (21) Climb the crack towards the overhangs then rail out dramatically to the right using a handrail on red rock. At the tip of the nose do a hard mantelshelf onto a small platform. Move 10m further to the right.
13: 30m (21) The ‘Pendulum Pitch’. Step up and back left on slabs to get into the perfect jamming crack. Near the top of the crack do a pendulum out from the roof to a tiny edge on the right-hand wall. Climb past the right-hand end of the roof to large flakes above.
14: 40m (17) Follow the flakes and cracks diagonally to the left to finish up the obvious chimney.
15: From the top of the chimney walk, scramble and dassie-crawl 30m left and finish up an easy ramp.
FA: Dave Cheesemond & Tony Dick 1977
FFA: Chris Lomax & Kevin Smith 1982
Route description by Hilton Davies Feb 2010.

SNORT
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Re: Yellowwood photo topo and RDs

Post by SNORT » Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:36 pm

HI have Hi Res pics of Prime Time, Blood is Sweeter than Honey. Anyone want em email me or post your address here.

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