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Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 12:58 pm
by G1ZA
Congrats JuzH on the wicked send... Its about time to show the world what we capable of doing!

There is bit of controvicy to the routes grade and name, As I remember Grant did not grade the route, but he did rename the route, as any first ascenters have right to do. \"Two to Win\"
Streetfighter or Two to Win
A route cant have two names!

Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:07 pm
by Justin
This is the news item from when Grant did the route.

\"Canadian Sets New Standard in South Africa
Visiting Canadian climber Grant Campbell may have established the hardest route in South Africa on a recent visit. Campbell completed a longstanding open project at Oudtshoorn known as The Streetfighter Project, renaming it Two to Win, after a bet he made to motivate himself for the ascent. Both Campbell and Paul Brouard, who bolted the line originally, feel the climb is probably around 5.14b. If confirmed, this will be the most difficult sport climb in\"

So yes, unconfirmed. The question is who's gonna confirm it since this the hardest JuzH has cranked 8)

Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:42 pm
by steveB
Wow! Awesome send Justin!

I seem to remember it was Grant's hardest redpoint too...

Didn't Paul Brouard come really close to sending it a few years ago? Something about not having his good shoes with him and foot peeling off a heel hook right at the top...

Posted: Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:54 pm
by Grigri
The name thing is a bit like the Biographie/Realization debate. Streetfighter was the working name for the proj, but as Grant grabbed the first send we should recognise his name; Two to Win.

Rad send JuzH!

Congrats JuzH!!

Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 10:03 am
by Etienne Poolman
I was lukcy enough to be there friday when JuzH redpointed streetfighter!! :D

Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 11:07 am
by guest
Everyone has the right to opinions without interference and to seek, receive and impart information and ideas through any media and regardless of frontiers.


Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 11:27 am
by GregS
Yeah Steve, I also heard that Paul Brouard came really close to sending this a couple years back. He had to borrow someone elses shoes as his had been stolen.


Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 11:29 am
by GregS
Another - it was originally a project of Jeremy Colenso's and bolted by him.

Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 7:44 pm
by Scott
For more photos of Justin on Street Fighter go here.


Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 1:24 am
by steveB
Great! Enough to decorate my bathroom wall-to-wall... (maybe the ceiling too)

Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:49 am
by Guy
While I seldom agree with “guest” (mainly because he/she is too ashamed of his/her views to use a real name) – I think that he/she may be right on this one.

While the first ascentionist is completely entitled to choose any name for their route – I think that it is poor form to change the name if it is widely known in the climbing community. That’s even more true when you change it from a fairly “nice” name to a fairly arb name (obviously personal taste or lack thereof makes this totally subjective).

An example: When Jerry Moffatt opened a boulder problem at Topside (that had always been referred to as The Accountants’ Project) I asked him what he’d named it. His reply was that it already had a name – so why should he change it.

Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 12:04 pm
by The Jimmy
Just put it in the guidebook as Streetfighter then?SA's no-one's b i t c h !

Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 12:15 pm
by The Jimmy
Look on a serious note, I'm sure you can also kinda understand where these guys (Sharma-Realization, Grant Campbell-Two to Win, etc.) are coming from. If you do a route or prob that sets a new level of climbing, you wanna leave something personal behind to be associated with it, both as a \"souvenier\" for yourself and a label for other that follow.

That said maybe Mr Grant Campbell can fly back over here and pee on the start of the route and we can change the name back to Streetfighter. :wink:

Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 3:56 pm
by Marshall
Just put it in the guidebook as Streetfighter then?SA's no-one's b i t c h !

I'm with Jimmy. Sack all these hard bastards from overseas. Whoever records history gets to make up the facts.


Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:37 pm
by PaulB
Erm, I can't recall having a problem with my shoes. Oh yes, once I tried it with too big shoes but I don't think I would have been close then. A year or so later (if anyone is interested) I fell just below the chains (where would that be exactly, the cynic asks, just above the first bolt?)

Congrats JUZH. Such beautiful moves...

The pics look cool too. But I can't tell if he can get the no-hands rest. A new spin on the grade question: sometimes I could get a no-hands rest by jamming my knee under the big undercling half way up, so is the route 33 for me and others whose legs are short enough and 34 for those with longer legs? Though there is only one (maybe two) footholds below the undercling so perhaps there is only one leg size that fits. A definite Cinderella story: line up to be measured for your first 34... :D