Eiger: South African summits

How did that route get that name? Jokes. Funny bits. Crag humour.
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zingela
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Eiger: South African summits

Post by zingela » Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:56 pm

Folks,
Can any one confirm if The Eiger has been summited by a South African to date?

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Justin
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by Justin » Mon Aug 05, 2013 7:13 pm

Andrew De Klerk way back (he also soloed it).

If I may... why do you ask?
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DeanVDM
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by DeanVDM » Mon Aug 05, 2013 7:22 pm

ADK has soloed it twice if I am not mistaken

Chris F
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by Chris F » Tue Aug 06, 2013 10:07 am

I'm sure many have, it's a fairly easy plod; do you mean specifically via the Nordwand?

zingela
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by zingela » Tue Aug 06, 2013 10:58 am

2 of us just summited Eiger last week. I was advised by the Grindewaldt Alpine Club they had no record of any South African summits to date. We checked the Mittelegi Log Book and there were no RSA climber entries either?

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Justin
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by Justin » Tue Aug 06, 2013 12:53 pm

Having a quick look over Andy's book 'Sharper Edges'

"My challenge was to solo the three classic North Faces of the Alps: the Eiger in Switzerland, the Matterhorn on the Swiss and Italian borders, and the Grandes Jorasses...
I'd actually climbed all of them at various times...
"
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ant
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by ant » Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:30 pm

The list of NorthFace climbers may be a little shorter, but there will be several dozen that have been up via the Miteleggi ridge.

zingela
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by zingela » Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:05 pm

Copy that! Thanks :)

Hilton
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by Hilton » Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:17 pm

Congratulations Mark!
Which route did you climb and who was your partner?

This is the little bit I know about locals on the Eiger:
In 1963 Rusty Baillie asked Keith Fletcher to join him for an attempt on the original North Face route. Keith couldn’t come up with travel money so Rusty climbed the route with leading Scottish climber Dougal Haston. (Haston's was the first British ascent of the North Face).

In the early ‘80s my brothers David and John had two high retreats in storm and rockfall – from the Death Bivouac and the Fourth Snowfield.
Chris Lomax and Greg Lacey also had a retreat following a big effort.
Dave Cheesmond may have made an ascent of the north face. I’ve sent an sms to Tony Dick (he’s in Chamonix) to ask him.

Then in the mid-eighties Andy de Klerk climbed the North Face with an English friend. He then had two solo retreats from high up; and then finally made a fantastic solo of the wall to complete his objective of soloing the three great north faces of Europe (Eiger, Matterhorn and Grande Jorasses). [David and John did those last two]

I’ve known quite a few locals to climb the northeast ridge route. And I think Jeremy and Rachel Colenso made an Eiger-Monch-Jungfrau link up.

Me – the closest I’ve come to the summit of the Eiger was flying over it in a hang-glider, but it’s high on my list (it’s a loooong list…!).

Well done
Regards,
Hilton Davies

Stephen
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Re: Eiger: South African summits

Post by Stephen » Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:55 pm

Dave Vallet and I did the Miteleggi a few years back, we stayed in the hut spectacularly perched on the ridge itself. We also did a couple of routes on the Monch and the Schreckhorn which were really fun - awesome place to be!

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