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SA Mountain - Yellowwood article

Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:42 pm
by Hilton
The June-August 2012 issue (no.41) has a section that I wrote about Yellowwood. Some additional stuff:

1. The photo of Guy at the bottom of page 39 is taken on the first pitch of Newborn (not Time Warp). This is the bolted route.

2. On page 40 in the section titled "1950s" there is a mangled sentence about Yellowwood Crack that reads: "It begins with some face climbing at the bottom, then above that the route follows some good pitches." This got mangled as I phoned in a change when Tony's magazine was about to hit the printing presses. My article had originally talked about a 'grungy-looking crack'. Subsequent to writing the article, a few weeks back, I did a quiet trip and solo'ed this route. I thought it was fantastic. Hence the need to make a change. The route does a few pitches up a face then a pitch or two in a big slot and then from a tranquil little 'camp site' with a waterfall, it does a few pitches up steep, bullet quartzite to end in a beautiful valley at the top of the mountain. It was graded 'D'. (Old-fashioned 'D'. Sport climbers would grade it about 15 with a fairly high seriousness factor).

3. The article is missing a route done by Clinton Martinengo and Gosia Lipinska called Antsarrific. (Some bad ants...). It starts around the Armageddon Time/Fantastic Time/Second Coming area. From the half-way ledge it is just left of Armageddon Time Direct where it starts in the massive corner then heads out to the right onto the edge of the arete then straight up. Gosia is going to give me more information soon.

Hope this is of interest to some (other than just me!).
ciao baby

Re: SA Mountain - Yellowwood article

Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:01 pm
by johannlanz
Hilton, It will be nice if Clinton and Gosia's route can be included on the Yellowwood topo that was published in the magazine, and is now on, so that this is a comprehensive topo of all existing routes.