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Trad revival! ADVENTURE

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 9:56 pm
by SNORT
Now when I see a photo of Brian Weaver trying to red point Monster on trad gear, I fear that there is indeed hope for adventure in SA. Now we all know that Brian can send Monster! And he knows it too! Even on a bad day. But can he do it on trad? I am not so sure and before he tried it neither did he know - methinks. Not on his first go at the very least.

And that is the difference between adventure and canned adventure even in the context of a sport route!

He has challenged Hector for the crux pitch of Prime time direct by arm wrestling for it (look at those bulging biceps of his on Monster!) So let's see if he can on-sight the Prime Time direct at a paltry grade of 24 (there is exactly one move on the whole route that is technically grade 22!) It has been done before!

This is true adventure....

I am rooting for it...

The whisky and scorn will flow, either way! Just depends who buys the whisky and who does the scorning.

Re: Trad revival! ADVENTURE

Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:12 am
by Franz
have some Whiskey! Amazing photo, amazing feat!

Re: Trad revival! ADVENTURE

Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 10:57 am
by brianweaver
Snort, you are so right... I walk all over Monster on bolts, doing laps on it at the end of the day for training. I have spent 3 days on it on gear, I am over-gripping and struggling with it even though I know exactly what gear goes where, from which hold and I know each piece is good.

My current project next door to Monster is Mutant Beast, a variation of Andrew's route. It follows a more direct finish to the Beast. It goes fully on gear too, and will probably warrant a 32 grade as it is much tougher than the Beast. I am very psyched to open the line on gear, even though the line is fully bolted and at a sport crag. MORE ADVENTURE FOR ME! Sparse gear too :)