Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

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Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby SNORT » Mon May 23, 2011 1:29 pm

Jonathan Hajos and Mike Baleta scored the bottle of Lagavulin 16 YO Malt Whisky for on-sighting Prime Time Direct and Jonathan scores a pair of brand new Evolv climbing shoes for styling all the hard pitches. Yeeeee-ah!

Any other takers out there?
Below is Mike's account:

We started the walk-in on Friday evening at 21:00 and made it to the Yellow
Wood trees by 22:40.
On sat we got up at about 06:30 and had breakfast and a nice stretch
session and started climbing at 08:15.
Which was a little late for me but Jono' really wanted to do his yoga
routine thoroughly.

I started out on the first pitch. That first open book was really nice but i
was incredibally nervous about having a foot pop or making a silly mistake.
(it's very strange for me to have that kind of pressure - where someone
elses goals are dependant on my actions). So i climbed way slow and really
cautiously. It was cool to see that he never sailed up the first pitch
either. You really need to be thinking sharp the whole way, which set the
tone for the rest of the day.
Jono got on the second pitch and made it around the first 'crux' roof
relatively easily, but took a big of time on the upper sections.
That open book on the top of the second pitch is really tricky but very fun.
He did pitch 3 (22)
I did pitch 4 (21) to the ledge. We were both on the ledge at 12:45.
I did the short pitch 5 (16). (we decided not to do pitch 5 & 6 fo fear of
unnecessary rope drag)
Jono started out on pitch 6 (22) climbing up off the belay ledge and
standing on the small sloping ledge pearing around the corner to scope-out
the line. His foot slipped on the shineyness! but he caught himself way
before the rope got tight, luckily i was giving him a very lazy belay. When
i started-up on that pitch i also nearly slipped off the exact same spot.
Pitch 7 (21) was next. I thought the crux was at the start, until i got
around the block at the top into the corner that has a tricky move to get to
the belay nuts. I just crimped on the small stuff on the face and then
managed to swing my right leg onto the block, very tentative stuff!
Jono took of on pitch 8 (23) leaving me in the hanging belay. It was my firs
time haning of a nut like that. There was definately some nervous
apprehension for the first 15mins, which soon turned to discomfort. About
45mins after i last saw Jono, I hear him shout something garbled. I cant
make out if he's at the top screaming "off-belay" or if some thing else is
going on. So i shout back "off-belay". I still could not make out the
response but it definitly sounded tense so i figured he was still climbing
and shout up "On-belay" realising the multitude of ambiguities that could
arise i figured i would say nothing more give him climbing slack just wait
untill the rope ran-out. about 20mins later i heard a distinct "off-belay"
followed by the rope being hauled up.
Seconding this pitch was plenty of fun for me and with every couple of
meters i climbed i was more impressed by Jono's lead. What a fucking
machine. I definately would have fallen trying to come around that last roof
if i had to have led that pitch.
Pitch 9 (20) me
Pitch 10 (21) jono
Pitch 11 (18) me. It's actually a nice top out pitch straight from vertical
climbing onto the top without any of that typical chossy crap to scramble

So, in summery, no-one fell or weighted the rope and Jono definately
deserves winning said wager.
I definately would have fallen if i had to have been leading the harder
pitches. (certainly on the 23 at the top)


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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby XMod » Mon May 23, 2011 3:47 pm

Go Jono and (Mad) Mike!

Dark Horse
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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby Dark Horse » Mon May 23, 2011 4:43 pm

Fantastically done guys brilliant..
Having just been on the easier prime time and absolutely having my ass whuped, I was depressed until I drank some of the whiskey I'd lost in my over ambitious bet. Oh well my girlfriend told me to have a table spoon of cement and harden the fuck up... Now I'm inspired to get back up there!!!

Really well done guys..

Shit I can't wait to get home.

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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby Hector » Mon May 23, 2011 5:07 pm

Big respect, that is one wild line :thumleft:

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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby SNORT » Mon May 23, 2011 6:46 pm

Come to think of it Jonathan does most of his climbing in crappy generic R50 Crocs - at least up to grade 21. Seem like that would be more useful than decent climbing shoes. Just saved a packet!

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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby Hilton » Mon May 23, 2011 9:59 pm

Dark Horse:
Dark Horse ol' bud, you were always going to have a hard time on Prime Time when you hadn't got enough rest from the previous Yellowwood mission. Five days isn't enough. And the way I recall it although it cost quite a bit of time (mostly my fault for not back-clipping that wire) your swing off into space was only on the crux pitch. And another thing that is such a big factor... the route was proper grade for Jonathan and Michael - and those were the best climbing conditions I've ever known at Yellowwood on Saturday. When we did Prime Time it was a grade harder. On a stonker summer's day it's easily two or three grades harder.

Snorty you hate compliments...well stuff you: You're an awesome motivator. The way you primed Jonathan for Prime Time Direct when we were on Cock and Bull last week; your Lagavulin offer; your goading and chastising (with positive intentions); and mostly by your example - damn, you give it horns.

Jonathan and Michael:
I said it on Saturday night.. well done boys! Great climbing and so lekker to see young climbers in the prime of their lives going for it on the big stuff. It was so lekker to hear you so excited about your achievement and talking of how hard you found the route and how unforgiving the place is. When you're 50 these are the outings that you will cherish.

As an aside - I went out to do a solo mission and spotted the two specks on the wall. The leader (Jonathan) was starting the crux pitch. Michael was in the scary hanging stance. For an hour on my uphill grind I watched Jonathan lead. He hung in for a long, long time at the overhanging crux which is a couple of metres before the end of the pitch. Big time staying power there.
As I got up to the base of the wall Michael was completing the third last pitch. I heard him shout down "I'm just going to throw a rock over your head". I shat myself and this missile flew down more than 200m to smash into the scree near me. I thought that would be it but more rocks came raining down. I didn't want anyone to know about my mission but had to shout to stay alive. We had a good laugh later. And thanks for the water Mike! Did you make it to your party?

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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby David Vallet » Mon May 23, 2011 10:14 pm

Sipping Charlies Lagavulin...
Nice work, well done Guys. I’m impressed

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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby toejam » Tue May 24, 2011 3:07 am

Nice one boys

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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby Fool » Wed May 25, 2011 7:54 am

Sorry about the rocks, haha... I managed to get to the braai (fashionably late and smelling like buchu).
Yes that place is increbibally unforgiving - it's a constant fight and nothing comes easily, which i suppose is the attraction.

Speaking of those crappy crocs. Jono did do the last pitch in crocs!


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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby SNORT » Wed May 25, 2011 9:19 am

We gotta find a good time for you (mike) me and Jono to spank the lagavulin. One night stand!

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Re: Prime Time Direct gets the first on-sight.

Postby Justin » Wed May 25, 2011 11:48 am

Awesome send Jono and Mike !! :thumleft:

On a side note I have to agree with Hilton about Snort being a good motivator.
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