Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 Yellowwood

Latest South Africa climbing news! Good news - Hard sends, first ascents, onsights, wicked redpoints, competitions, etc. Bad news - accidents, muggings, rockfalls, etc. You can also send it on over to info@climbing.co.za.

SNORT
Posts: 1032
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 Yellowwood

Postby SNORT » Fri Nov 04, 2016 10:30 am

Yesterday in somewhat arctic conditions, with Brent Russel shivering in his jacket and deserving the daily belay award, we fashioned another addition to the Yellowwood repertoire of PDG (pretty damn good) routes on the Divine Time Buttress. The first pitch climbs the line to the right of Play Time and although it appears full of lichen and chossy, the pitch, which we splint in 2 on the day, climbs very well with typical problem solving moves, for 60m.

Pitch 2 takes the recess to the right of Divine Time, just left of outrageous time. There is a vary challenging crux (23) to start if you are vertically challenged but with excellent pro. Once in the recess proper at 5 metres or so, the angle eases but it is a little run-out at grade 20 to the overhang.

The next section climbs the crack just to the right of Divine Time crux and as I had knackered myself on the first crux merely aided it. However it is again a very long reach that Squeaks might get but otherwise will require very proficient jambing and finger locking to do, probably at grade 25 or harder.

The rest of the climb is very pleasant mostly 16/17 climbing with a relatively easy crank through another overhanging crack 18/19 through the same overhang but to the left of Outrageous Time.

The final pitch finishes easily and very pleasantly at the Abseil anchors.

First ascent C Edelstein and B Russell 3 November 2016

Brussel
Posts: 220
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Re: Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 Yellowwood

Postby Brussel » Fri Nov 04, 2016 12:18 pm

Hats off to Snort for a great lead on the 23 pitch. The last pro in the recess was a micro wire which would never have held a fall. There was good pro lower and the fall would be clean but you'd earn some air miles before it caught you. You know it's bad when Snort shouts down that he's scared.

Top notch day out on the rock, We're blessed with the amount and quality of the rock in the Western Cape and in particular the accessibility of large walls like Yellowwood.

SNORT
Posts: 1032
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 Yellowwood

Postby SNORT » Fri Nov 04, 2016 5:39 pm


SNORT
Posts: 1032
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Time Lapse 24

Postby SNORT » Mon Nov 21, 2016 8:53 am

So the FFA on-sight is up for grabs of Outrageous Time and Time Elapse at Yellowwood. Both routes are have a stellar second pitch but overall are excellent routes. Willem and I worked out the moves on the second crux of Time Elapse (24 red point) and improved the third pitch.

But red-pointing grades are not appropriate at Yellowwood as it is not exactly sport climbing and conditions are critical and not easy to predict. We thought it would be very cold yesterday but in fact the conditions were perfect for our shinanigans on the rock.

So if anyone is keen?????


Social Media

     

Return to “South Africa Climbing News”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest