Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

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SNORT
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Maquerade 22 New route in Du Toits

Post by SNORT » Wed Nov 12, 2014 2:38 pm

Tony Dick, Bruce Daniel and I missioned up through the fybos to rock face in Du Toit's Kloof and climbed a new route that I have tentatively called Masquerade. If you look at the cliff one can see the "mask" It route climbs through the middle of the obvious mask like feature of red rock on the wall. The climb is 160m 6 pitches and has one pitch that is (soft) 22 as one places a bomber cam above your head and it is then in effect top-roped by the leader. Tricky move though. Details to follow on the WIKI.....
Masquerade photo topo V1.jpg
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Tony about to crank through the 22 crux on Pitch 3 Masquerade 11 Nov 2014  Bruce following below.jpg
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Masqueradeline from far 11 Nov 2014.jpg
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Hilton
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Hilton » Mon Nov 17, 2014 5:05 pm

Guy made short work of The Illearth Stone at Paarl Rock yesterday. He led this high-commitment AdK test piece in fine style. Sadly I couldn't pull it off, but hopefully next time! (We also did The Crystal Chronicles, a very fine route, Children of a Lesser God, still awesome, Sands of Time twice and a bit of faffing around)

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emile
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by emile » Mon Nov 17, 2014 9:23 pm

We definitely need a like button. Thanks for the updates guys, it's terrific to hear some local news!!

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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Stu » Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:17 pm

Nice. Glad to see Paarl routes are still seeing some action.

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Justin
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Justin » Wed Dec 03, 2014 2:50 pm

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SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Thu Dec 04, 2014 6:09 pm

Time After Time was improved by adding a stern and also sterling pitch 4 to it by C Edelstein, Tony Dick and Adam Roff on Sunday 30 November. The topo is on the WIKI.

The climbing on the 2nd and 3rd pitches are no harder than 18 but are so "out there" that I have graded them 19-.

The last two pitches are typical challenging Yellowwood pitches but no hard moves really.

I certainly rate it a 5* Yellowwood route as there is 160m of interesting, varied "busy" climbing the whole way!

Enjoy!

If you do it download the photo which is high res from the WIKI on your cell phone and then magnify it to see the detail. Much better than printing.....

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Justin
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Justin » Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:31 am

RockMasters 2014

Women’s results:

1st illona Pelser
2nd Sam Stainton
3rd Julia Chen

Men’s Results
1st Falco Filoto
2nd Calrin Curtis
3rd Jimbo Smith
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Justin
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Justin » Sat Dec 13, 2014 6:50 am

Clinton Martinengo made the second ascent of 'Where I Stood' in Oorlogs Kloof, yesterday. Clinton described the route as "possibly one of the best sport routes I have done."
Steven Bradshaw (who opened the route) gave the golden belay :thumleft:

-- Click here for more
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by DavidWade » Wed Dec 24, 2014 1:26 pm

Evan Margetts sent Pit Fighter (31) and Jack Of All Trades (30) at Waterfall Boven.
Joshua McNally send Tokolosi, his first 30.
Well done guys :thumleft:

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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Ghaznavid » Tue Jan 06, 2015 2:14 pm

Not by any means the most technical climb he has ever pulled off, but here is Andrew Porter on top of Andre's Knob. Um, I mean a photo proving that Andrew bagged Andre's Knob. No, that sounds worse. Any way - about a C-grade route, but successfully free-soloed and on-sighted. Apparently the summit has taken a few lightning strikes recently. He rates there is an easier route if approached from the SA side.
And.jpg
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Ps. excuse the quality, but the photo was taken without a tripod at more than 1km away.
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SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:02 am

Tony Dick and I climbed Extra Time 24 at Yellowwood yesterday while Dark Horse and Karl Hayden climbed Lekker Time. The roof pitch has stumped me on 3 previous occasions as it is a reach/power problem. But I managed to fight my way through it on my second go yesterday.

Tony took a real whipper on the 22 dihedral pitch preceding it.

Extra Time is one of the very best routes at Yellowwood. All the climbing is good. The first 120m is typical Yellowwood, steep and intimidating in places with lots of interesting moves but nothing very hard.

The second 80m is harder but on pristine Krakadouw type rock starting with face climbing, then going into the dihedral and then climbing horizontally through a 3.5m very easily and well protected overhang to a very tricky power/reach move and then finishing up some more tricky climbing on excellent rock.

The move through the roof will be quite difficult to on-sight without beta and may be harder than 24.
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SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:37 pm

Tini Versfeld and I climbed "Shot to the Heart". Grade 22 and 23 today on "Frazers" buttress today.

Now this would not usually be considered to be very newsworthy. But I suppose our combined age is over 110 years and we left the car with my temp gauge registering a mere 40 degrees C. This must be the hottest day I have experienced in the 18 years I have been in Cape Town.

We indeed sweated a little. But we did the route with only one fall between us.

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Justin
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Justin » Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:36 pm

A while back I received a comment from a person on the Climb ZA Facebook group recently.
Wanting to explain why a lot of our content is WC focused, I replied (we spoke further and he thanked me for my reply - all is well).

Hi,
Thanks for your post on the Climb ZA FB Wall. You make a point, a lot of the news that we post is from the Western Cape.
There are a few reasons for this: Primarily though we stay in the Western Cape and I am therefore in contact with people who are doing things down here and I often ask or know people personally - and that is often how reports end up on Climb ZA.


So for anyone out there in the country (or continent) we'd love to be able to post more news/article from other places in the country... so if you, or if you know of others who are doing stuff in your area, please send it on and we'll post it up.

Just putting it out there - big thanks to everyone who has contributed to Climb ZA in the past :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Justin

p.s. There seems to be a lot of Gauteng'ers moving down to the Cape!? Must be the reason that Cape Town has the worst traffic in the country!
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SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Mon Apr 13, 2015 10:14 am

Roger at YW.jpg
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I have it on good authority that the inimitable, the one and only, Roger from KZN actually walked up to Yellowwood and did a trad route......
Loved the climbing and how perfectly sustained the moderate grade was.
The gear was brilliant. Adam said I was like a kid in a candy store - first I ate all the cams then all the wires...

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Justin
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Justin » Fri May 01, 2015 10:04 am

Congrats to Gosia on her send of Switchbitch (32) at the Cauldron in Montagu yesterday!

Also in Montagu, Garvin Jacobs has been busy with his drill, more to follow soon.
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Forket
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Forket » Sat May 02, 2015 2:06 pm

Congrats Gosia, thats super rad. Makes you one of the strongest female climbers in SA ever:D

@Justin, I know grade doesnt matter to some, but to others....
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Justin
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Justin » Sat May 02, 2015 11:23 pm

Forket wrote:@Justin, I know grade doesnt matter to some, but to others....
Thanks Forket, correct you are :)
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Forket
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Forket » Sun May 03, 2015 2:24 pm

:geek:

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Forket
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Forket » Mon May 04, 2015 2:49 pm

walking in a kloof, when an old guy approaches you and this conversation begins:





:lol:
eT

SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:00 pm

Excalibur 22, an ancient Dave Davies classic on Lions Head received and ascent by Dark Horse and me today. It is a delectable, steep route with excellent protection which is at odds with the route description. There is no move harder than grade 21. Really worthwhile.

SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:16 pm

"African Time, Not a Straight Line" 20,20,20,21,23,25,22,20 at Yellowwood received its second all free ascent yesterday by Willem Le Roux. Tini and I need a bit of rope Tension to reach the critical "skyline jug" on the crux pitch.

A fine outing indeed.

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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by mokganjetsi » Fri Jul 17, 2015 8:09 am

hanged around on TM last Thurs & Fri to see Caroline Ciavaldini send Jeopardy (29) second go and James Pearson getting Russian Roulette (31 R) second go - James thought the route could be 32/8b. I uploaded some pics which can be viewed publicly (i hope!) :

https://www.facebook.com/hosboshoff/med ... nref=story
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Q20
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Q20 » Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:56 pm

Wed 22 July - Gale force winds uprooted trees and turned over trucks around Cape Town. Elsewhere, in a unexpected area of relative calm, Douw Steyn once again provided a golden belay and we opened The Contortion Mist (~25) at the Lower Buttresses. It involves oozing, twisting or beasting your way into a mostly blank, bottomless corner. :scratch: :scratch:
http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Lower_Bu ... Mist_.7E25
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Gosia
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Gosia » Sat Jul 25, 2015 9:55 am

Nice one Squeaks!!! :hapban :hapban

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Justin
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Justin » Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:36 pm

It would appear that Alex Honnold is in Angola on a climbing trip!
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Q20
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Q20 » Sun Sep 06, 2015 11:05 pm

After a few airy days swinging around on a 100m static rope, I pieced together a few new routes on the wall right of Africa Bust Up . They are all full value on excellent rock. I first poked around here about 3 years ago, but then got distracted with other things until I went with Gosia and Douw recently to try their brilliant Incy Wincy Spider .

RDs are on the wiki here: http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Africa_L ... dge_Proper.

I hope others enjoy them as much as I did.

Thanks to Jahne, Gosia, Warren, Sarel and Clinton for coming along for the ride.

I will be up North for a month or so, so if anyone finds my sunglasses at the base it would be rad to get them back 8)
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SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Tue Nov 10, 2015 3:09 pm

Another Outrageous route at Yellowwood in the making with Adam Roff and Richard Halsey.


It needs some work on the FFA and the on-sight (pitch 2 is probably 26 and pitch 3 24) but is nevertheless worth doing even with the odd mechanical assistance.
Outrageous time Pitch 2.jpg
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Outrageous Time Pitch 3 Adam leading (1).jpg[/attachment]
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SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Thu Dec 17, 2015 7:47 am

2 new routes at Tafelberg....Sling and Sting:

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Spout#Sl ... d_Sting_21

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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by DavidWade » Wed Dec 30, 2015 7:54 pm

I send Godzilla yesterday :)

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Justin
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Justin » Thu Dec 31, 2015 10:19 am

DavidWade wrote:I send Godzilla yesterday :)
Congrats!!
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