Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Latest South Africa climbing news! Good news - Hard sends, first ascents, onsights, wicked redpoints, competitions, etc. Bad news - accidents, muggings, rockfalls, etc. You can also send it on over to info@climbing.co.za.

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emile
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by emile » Thu Dec 31, 2015 12:53 pm

hmmmm. These lazy ass site operators, still no like buttons... :pirat:
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Q20
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Real Name: Richard Halsey
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Q20 » Fri Jan 15, 2016 10:13 am

With a lack of water in the higher Cederberg areas, Wolfberg has 'coincidentally' had 6 new additions to the main wall over the festive season:

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Wolfberg#New_Routes

Big thanks to Julia Wakeling, Marian Penso and Tommy Hardman Bairstow for the missions :thumleft:
One life, one body. Use them well.

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Q20
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Q20 » Fri Feb 19, 2016 6:25 pm

Recently Gosia has added another fine, hard line to Table Mountain: Daddy Long Legs (27).
The crux pitch is sustained with plenty of airtime potential.
Going at it ground up, it took her very few tries to send. Respect.

The Bust Up area now has a number of good new lines from grade 25 to 29.

check it out!

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Africa_L ... dge_Proper
One life, one body. Use them well.

SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Sat Feb 20, 2016 9:57 am

Test of Time received its FFA on Wednesday. It was a team effort with Richard Halsey who had scatalogical issues most of the day. But it goes all free and some additional cleaning makes this a four and half star route.

Squeaks starting the steep strenuous superb 7th pitch (22)
Test of Time with Squeaks Feb 2016 (8) low res.jpg
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Chris F
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by Chris F » Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:29 am

I hope the cleaning is not related to the scatological issues?

Good work!

SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:36 am

Nah, just a bush or a bit of loose rock here and there - typical YW

hendriks
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by hendriks » Thu Feb 25, 2016 3:12 pm

So this snuck in under the radar. From Cutloose: http://www.cutloose.co.za/2016/02/mary- ... l?spref=fb

Mary Poppins has a second ascent. Well done Marijus

SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Fri Mar 11, 2016 8:07 am

BMC/MCSA exchange has come to an end. This was a phenomenal trad event that saw a large proportion of South Africa's hardest and highest quality trad routes receiving ascents at Wolfberg, TM, Tafelberg, Yellowwood and Blouberg.

As an example, in just one day Saturday 5 March, every major hard route at Blouberg was climbed free by combined British and South African Climbers. The first two routes have only been on-sighted climbed once in 17 years, Dog of Thunder has never been on-sighted and as far as I know neither has the crux oitch on Tequila Sunrise. The routes included:
Dog Day in Heaven 25
The Dream of White Dogs 26
Dog of Thunder 30+
Tequila Sunrise 25
Blue Moon 25
Eight Miles High 24
Scatterlings 22

As well as some easier routes.

There were no epics and everybody back to camp well before midnight!

This is a standard of climbing that has never occurred in South Africa and the hit list of routes is unlikely to be repeated in the foreseeable future.

The plan is to repeat the exchange in 2 year's time.

Steve McClure, who flashed Double Jeopardy, admitted on Facebook, that South Africa has the best trad climbing in the world.... Yeah!

SNORT
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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Thu Nov 24, 2016 7:44 pm

I feel a combination of nostalgia (for when I was younger and stronger) inspiration and humility (not usually my strong point) watching Jimbo Smith float up Outrageous Time onsight at Yellowwood today. Perfect conditions, great climbing and a great day.

At least I managed to work out the second crux which has stymied me to date. Now just gotta cut down on the red wine, (calories) lose a kilo or three and crank the darn thing.

Thanks Jimbo had a great day out.

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Re: Local climbing scene in SA - Whats happening??

Post by SNORT » Mon Nov 28, 2016 7:18 am

Got a message from my ole buddy Hector who probably did the fourth ascent of Agonising Hands 23? in Cederberg Kloof. He, like others, took a plummet off the top V crux.

It is probably a bit of a Sandbag or rather the direct variation Doggle is (?26). I attempted to repeat Doggle with Clinton M about 5 years ago and Clint flashed it by I failed on it at the time.

This route has probably not been climbed in almost 30 years!

Well done for trying H, you are my hero.

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