Jonathan Hajos and Mike Baleta scored the bottle of Lagavulin 16 YO Malt Whisky for on-sighting Prime Time Direct and Jonathan scores a pair of brand new Evolv climbing shoes for styling all the hard pitches. Yeeeee-ah!
Any other takers out there?
Below is Mike's account:
We started the walk-in on Friday evening at 21:00 and made it to the Yellow
Wood trees by 22:40.
On sat we got up at about 06:30 and had breakfast and a nice stretch
session and started climbing at 08:15.
Which was a little late for me but Jono' really wanted to do his yoga
I started out on the first pitch. That first open book was really nice but i
was incredibally nervous about having a foot pop or making a silly mistake.
(it's very strange for me to have that kind of pressure - where someone
elses goals are dependant on my actions). So i climbed way slow and really
cautiously. It was cool to see that he never sailed up the first pitch
either. You really need to be thinking sharp the whole way, which set the
tone for the rest of the day.
Jono got on the second pitch and made it around the first 'crux' roof
relatively easily, but took a big of time on the upper sections.
That open book on the top of the second pitch is really tricky but very fun.
He did pitch 3 (22)
I did pitch 4 (21) to the ledge. We were both on the ledge at 12:45.
I did the short pitch 5 (16). (we decided not to do pitch 5 & 6 fo fear of
unnecessary rope drag)
Jono started out on pitch 6 (22) climbing up off the belay ledge and
standing on the small sloping ledge pearing around the corner to scope-out
the line. His foot slipped on the shineyness! but he caught himself way
before the rope got tight, luckily i was giving him a very lazy belay. When
i started-up on that pitch i also nearly slipped off the exact same spot.
Pitch 7 (21) was next. I thought the crux was at the start, until i got
around the block at the top into the corner that has a tricky move to get to
the belay nuts. I just crimped on the small stuff on the face and then
managed to swing my right leg onto the block, very tentative stuff!
Jono took of on pitch 8 (23) leaving me in the hanging belay. It was my firs
time haning of a nut like that. There was definately some nervous
apprehension for the first 15mins, which soon turned to discomfort. About
45mins after i last saw Jono, I hear him shout something garbled. I cant
make out if he's at the top screaming "off-belay" or if some thing else is
going on. So i shout back "off-belay". I still could not make out the
response but it definitly sounded tense so i figured he was still climbing
and shout up "On-belay" realising the multitude of ambiguities that could
arise i figured i would say nothing more give him climbing slack just wait
untill the rope ran-out. about 20mins later i heard a distinct "off-belay"
followed by the rope being hauled up.
Seconding this pitch was plenty of fun for me and with every couple of
meters i climbed i was more impressed by Jono's lead. What a fucking
machine. I definately would have fallen trying to come around that last roof
if i had to have led that pitch.
Pitch 9 (20) me
Pitch 10 (21) jono
Pitch 11 (18) me. It's actually a nice top out pitch straight from vertical
climbing onto the top without any of that typical chossy crap to scramble
So, in summery, no-one fell or weighted the rope and Jono definately
deserves winning said wager.
I definately would have fallen if i had to have been leading the harder
pitches. (certainly on the 23 at the top)