Lunch Time 20 new route at Yellowwood

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SNORT
Posts: 1156
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Lunch Time 20 new route at Yellowwood

Post by SNORT » Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:30 am

Lunch Time is so called because you should easily finish the route and comfortably be enjoying your lunch back at the base and even before the route becomes sunny and hot. It serves as probably the best introduction to Yellowwood climbing and overall is the fastest route to do (other than, perhaps, Yellowwood Crack that is not nearly as good). A skilled party should tick it off 2-3 hours. There is one very short section of 20 which with beta is probably really only grade 19.

The pro is generally excellent and although some of the rock appears a bit gnarly, the holds are mostly clean and the pro easy to place. The nice thing about the route is that all the tricky bits are steep that allows for safe falls. It starts right at the water drip and finishes at the Timerity Abseil Point. So very user friendly.
Lunch time low res photo topo.JPG
Lunch time low res photo topo.JPG (115.41 KiB) Viewed 323 times
There are two variations of the route that can be done to increase the difficulty and the last pitch variation is excellent equating in quality to the adjacent Timerity 22 pitch although it is somewhat run-out and as of today 3 October, still needs an on-sight lead.

Pitch 1: 16 55m. Start just to the left of Divine Time. Step up on the lichen covered face and then climb the clean grey bulging block on the right to avoid the chossy gulley on the left. Stance as for Timerity and Zietgeist and Another Fckn Time.

Pitch 2: 18 30m. Climb up parallel to the deep wide crack on the right to bypass the overhang with a crank move on the right. Continue up the grey appearing gnarly pillar that is easy climbing on clean holds to stance on a small perch below the overhang.

Pitch 3: 18 30m. Traverse left about 5m to avoid the gnarly crack through the overhang. Then up 2 metres or so to be able to traverse back right above the overhang. Continue on easy rock to a stance in the gulley.

Pitch 4: 20 45m. Crank up on the arete using laybacks until able to stand on balance. Continue on mostly easy clean grey rock all the way to the top past another short lay back cranky section. Once almost level with the Timerity Abseil Point, traverse carefully over grassy ledge to belay there or back in the cave in the shade.

Pitch 2: 20. An alternative way is to climb the white face starting from a recessed ledge on the right as shown on the photo topo.

Pitch 4: Alternative 22. From the belay in the gulley climb the easy ramp on the left to where the rock steepens. The crux is approached by climbing the compact yellow orange face on the right on small lay back holds and then moving into the black crack system on the left to find gear. Climb past the layback flake, crank through the overlap and continue to the top.

FA: Charles Edelstein and Brent Russel 3 Oct 2017

Beta pitch 4: If you are a purist do not read this section. Getting of the belay ledge to where you are on balance is not obvious as you cannot see any holds or gear placements after about 3 or 4 metres. Keep your rack light as it is strenuous. Crank up to place a good half inch cam at about 3m. Then feel for an excellent sharp lay back up and right to crank up and allow you to step right. An excellent sling placement over a horn is easily then placed. It then gets easier. If you get it right the crux is really only 19 or even 18. It is not harder than say, Atlantic Crag Crux and much safer with very good gear.

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