Terrific Time - new 5* moderate route at YW

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SNORT
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Terrific Time - new 5* moderate route at YW

Post by SNORT » Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:47 pm

So in perfect conditions Brent Russel and I fashioned an excellent new route at YW. It parallels. Lekker Time but is much better with quality rock most
of the way. It is considerably harder than Lekker Time but is ideal for climbers of different abilities to do as there are some tricky bold pitches interspersed with easy pitches. One can also gippo onto Lekker Time if you get a little psyched out.

http://www.climbing.co.za/w/images/c/c7 ... ascent.pdf
Last edited by SNORT on Fri Sep 22, 2017 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Justin
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Re: Terrific Time - new 5* moderate route at YE

Post by Justin » Fri Sep 22, 2017 6:53 am

Awesome! I'm getting keener and keener :P
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mokganjetsi
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Re: Terrific Time - new 5* moderate route at YE

Post by mokganjetsi » Fri Sep 22, 2017 9:21 am

Wow Snort you guys just unearth one gem after another! :thumleft:

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henkg
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Re: Terrific Time - new 5* moderate route at YE

Post by henkg » Fri Sep 22, 2017 12:01 pm

Great work SNORT and Brent :thumleft:

So is it 22 or 21?

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Brussel
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Re: Terrific Time - new 5* moderate route at YE

Post by Brussel » Fri Sep 22, 2017 12:18 pm

I reckon 22. However the old man made it look easier than what it felt to me :? I'll blame my freezing hands on the extreme pump I felt

There is a critical flake that is loose on the first pitch just below the roof. The gear is good on all the cruxes so it's safe but as with all YW routes just keep an eye open. We trundled several large boulders and flakes and lots of smaller stuff all the way up. (you can bypass this loose flake by moving left and then traversing in a bit at the roof) I tried to prize it out but it seemed well keyed in. You can bypass the first pitch entirely by doing fantastic time's first one making the grade more moderate.

It really is a five star climb and I'm amazed that the wall continually produces so many great routes

SNORT
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Re: Terrific Time - new 5* moderate route at YE

Post by SNORT » Fri Sep 22, 2017 4:47 pm

You can bypass the first pitch which you really should not!!!! But by using Lekker Time (Not Fantastic Time as Brent said). You probably also climb up the not so clean corner on the left. BTW, although I did all the moves clean, I did sit on the rope to clean out gear placements and work out the crux move on the first pitch so a clean ascent is in the offing.

SNORT
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Re: Terrific Time - new 5* moderate route at YE

Post by SNORT » Fri Sep 22, 2017 5:36 pm

As for the grade. It felt hard as one grips on way tight with cold hands when on new un-tested rock and gear. So hard to say. Need to go cruise it and see. The gear is really good which one does not know when doing a first ascent. Knowing that the gear and the rock you are clinging on after testing it brings down the grade at least one.

I reckon it probably goes at 21 with the knowledge that the gear is good

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