A truly incredible new route on Wolfberg's iconic Energy Crisis prow.
Pitch 1 (20): The great layback crack of Energy Crisis.
Pitch 2 (19): Head straight up to the big roofs above by climbing up the right side of the pillar. Rail a long way left under the roof to stance on the ledge at the end.
Pitch 3 (21): Go up diagonally rightwards to the red-brown wall with the lightning bolt crack. Climb this and stance on the ledge at the start of the famous Energy Crisis Traverse.
Pitch 4 (26/27): Head straight up the steep corner to the roof (Same start as for Ballad of a Thin Man). Rail, campus and crimp out to the right for 10 or 15 metres until forced to do an over-vertical mantelshelf to a higher rail. Rail all the way out right to stance on the exposed edge overhanging the path a long way down. This pitch is absolutely extraordinary.
Pitch 5 (16): The wonderful last pitch of Energy Crisis.
This route is going to go down as one of the most iconic routes in the Cederberg and South Africa. It is incredible.
First ascent: Anthony Hall and Hilton Davies, March 2016
Photo credit: pic of Ant Hall sending P4, SA Mountain Magazine, Tony Lourens. Thanks fella!
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