Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 Yellowwood

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SNORT
Posts: 1165
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 Yellowwood

Post by SNORT » Fri Nov 04, 2016 10:30 am

Yesterday in somewhat arctic conditions, with Brent Russel shivering in his jacket and deserving the daily belay award, we fashioned another addition to the Yellowwood repertoire of PDG (pretty damn good) routes on the Divine Time Buttress. The first pitch climbs the line to the right of Play Time and although it appears full of lichen and chossy, the pitch, which we splint in 2 on the day, climbs very well with typical problem solving moves, for 60m.

Pitch 2 takes the recess to the right of Divine Time, just left of outrageous time. There is a vary challenging crux (23) to start if you are vertically challenged but with excellent pro. Once in the recess proper at 5 metres or so, the angle eases but it is a little run-out at grade 20 to the overhang.

The next section climbs the crack just to the right of Divine Time crux and as I had knackered myself on the first crux merely aided it. However it is again a very long reach that Squeaks might get but otherwise will require very proficient jambing and finger locking to do, probably at grade 25 or harder.

The rest of the climb is very pleasant mostly 16/17 climbing with a relatively easy crank through another overhanging crack 18/19 through the same overhang but to the left of Outrageous Time.

The final pitch finishes easily and very pleasantly at the Abseil anchors.

First ascent C Edelstein and B Russell 3 November 2016

Brussel
Posts: 248
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:52 pm

Re: Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 Yellowwood

Post by Brussel » Fri Nov 04, 2016 12:18 pm

Hats off to Snort for a great lead on the 23 pitch. The last pro in the recess was a micro wire which would never have held a fall. There was good pro lower and the fall would be clean but you'd earn some air miles before it caught you. You know it's bad when Snort shouts down that he's scared.

Top notch day out on the rock, We're blessed with the amount and quality of the rock in the Western Cape and in particular the accessibility of large walls like Yellowwood.

SNORT
Posts: 1165
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Time Lapse 23 A1 or 20 A1 Yellowwood

Post by SNORT » Fri Nov 04, 2016 5:39 pm


SNORT
Posts: 1165
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Re: Time Lapse 24

Post by SNORT » Mon Nov 21, 2016 8:53 am

So the FFA on-sight is up for grabs of Outrageous Time and Time Elapse at Yellowwood. Both routes are have a stellar second pitch but overall are excellent routes. Willem and I worked out the moves on the second crux of Time Elapse (24 red point) and improved the third pitch.

But red-pointing grades are not appropriate at Yellowwood as it is not exactly sport climbing and conditions are critical and not easy to predict. We thought it would be very cold yesterday but in fact the conditions were perfect for our shinanigans on the rock.

So if anyone is keen?????

SNORT
Posts: 1165
Joined: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:53 am
Real Name: Charles Edelstein
Location: Cape Town

Time Lapse 24

Post by SNORT » Fri Feb 02, 2018 11:01 am

Willem Le Roux free climbed both cruxes on Time Lapse on Sunday 28 January and I then somehow managed the same feat with Nadine Methner providing the Golden Belay 3 days later on Wednesday 31st her Birthday. We all climbed it differently. Willem did the first crux 23 off a crimp and drop knee while both Nadine and I had to do a dyno off side pulls with both hands.

On the second crux Willem did a left hand jamb and then body twisted to reach high for a slot. I had to do a funky left arm body crossed undercling to a low right hand jamb. The left hand to layback gaston next to the jamb. Then a higher very crap jamb with my right hand and the wriggle and lay back moves with my left hand to get feet up. Nadine did some powerful lay back moves

The first crux is 23 to on-sight and repoint. The second crux is 24 to red-point but on-sighting is very difficult to grade. We three had to try at least 5 times to work out out to get through the roof and Willem and I had already tried it a year ago.

Excellent climbing....
Time lapse nadine belaying.jpg
Time lapse nadine belaying.jpg (116.93 KiB) Viewed 414 times

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