Cam Chart

[shorti]

I created a chart to compare the different cams and how they fit in. I figured someone else might find it useful, so here it is. I didn't include every single cam on the market, only the obvious choices (to me) one would look to buy these days.

Feel free to comment. If you'd like to add something (the other older Metolius cams for instance), I can send you the spread sheet I used.

Just a note. The friends column is for the Tech Friends, but the sizes are the same for the Forged Friends (1 - 4 only). As far as I understand the Helium Friends will be quite different.

[BAbycoat]

@shorti,

nice data collection - thanks!

It's been a slow day at work - so I've done some reformatting (and added Omega-Pacific LinkCams):

CamChart1.JPG (63.69 KiB) Viewed 1190 times

also looked at a log comparison (slightly better basis for comparison, because cams are designed around a logarithmic spiral)

CamChart2.JPG (82.49 KiB) Viewed 1190 times

; also gives better perspective of small sizes)

PS - for the fill I just grabbed some images of the spectrum off the web and stretched them until they looked about right. Take it as only an indication of the cam's optimal range of operation.

[shorti]

A slow day at work? 4:50 in the morning!

Nice charts Babycoat, but I don't quite understand the second one. Mind explaining it to the blunt pencil?

[BAbycoat]

@shorti,

The first chart plots the cam dimensions; the second chart plots the log of the cam dimensions. It's a way to streeeeetch the left hand side of the chart to make the smaller sizes more visible.

(the length of the bars in the second graph indicates relative range, i.e. max/min, as opposed to absolute range, i.e. max - min, in the first).

[shorti]

hmmmm... I wonder if anyone of them ever thought of bringing the golden ratio into it. φ Cams - the gold standard slcd... wait a minute, I'm gonna start my own cam company! They always talk about cam angle, but maybe sticking to nature's rules will be easier and I won't be surprised if it works better too. It's pretty close in any case.

[Oakley]

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/for ... _collapsed;