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 Post subject: Beal Joker Trad/Sport
PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:08 am
Posts: 78
Real Name: Raymond Kroger
I am considering buying a beal joker as a joint sport/trad rope as it is advertised in the Beal Gear book. The main reason is that I have to buy a second trad rope, as well as a new sport rope. I have a 60m 9mm half rope, and I see that the joker is rated as a half and a single rope, although a single rope for "advanced users". So if I bought a joker (9.8mm I think) I could use the joker for sport and both for trad.

Is this adviseable - any comments??

Ray


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:13 pm
Posts: 698
Jokers are great! I have 2, mostly reserved for trad as half ropes, but I do use them as singles on sport routes and short straight trad routes. It works great if you are on a sport/trad road trip. They are quite thin, 9.1mm so it should be perfect with your other rope, but thin ropes don't last as long as thick ones, so try avoid climbing easy stuff with lots of friction on the rope.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 1:59 pm
Posts: 724
I reckon it's a good plan, especially if you're the size of not-so-shorti and you're worried that one of the ropes might take the entire fall (think traverses where you've only clipped one rope). And, when you go on roadtrips, you don't have to take along 2 halves and a single to do sport and trad - you can just take the hal and the Joker, and leave the half when you're clipping bolts.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:33 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:21 am
Posts: 277
Real Name: Henk Grobler
Just remember to add a Petzl Reverso or similar (for your climbing partner too) to the price. A standard ATC does not give a solid belay on the 9mm.

I love it though!

_________________
You may still be here tomorrow, but your dreams may not. Cat Stevens


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 11:44 am
Posts: 592
Jokers are great.
I use mine for both trad and sport. Admittedly less for sport than trad.

It has but 1 negative: It is slightly bulkier and heavier than a 1/2 rope.


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