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Beal Joker Trad/Sport

Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:13 pm
by Ray
I am considering buying a beal joker as a joint sport/trad rope as it is advertised in the Beal Gear book. The main reason is that I have to buy a second trad rope, as well as a new sport rope. I have a 60m 9mm half rope, and I see that the joker is rated as a half and a single rope, although a single rope for "advanced users". So if I bought a joker (9.8mm I think) I could use the joker for sport and both for trad.

Is this adviseable - any comments??

Ray

Re: Beal Joker Trad/Sport

Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:26 pm
by shorti
Jokers are great! I have 2, mostly reserved for trad as half ropes, but I do use them as singles on sport routes and short straight trad routes. It works great if you are on a sport/trad road trip. They are quite thin, 9.1mm so it should be perfect with your other rope, but thin ropes don't last as long as thick ones, so try avoid climbing easy stuff with lots of friction on the rope.

Re: Beal Joker Trad/Sport

Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:27 pm
by pierre.joubert
I reckon it's a good plan, especially if you're the size of not-so-shorti and you're worried that one of the ropes might take the entire fall (think traverses where you've only clipped one rope). And, when you go on roadtrips, you don't have to take along 2 halves and a single to do sport and trad - you can just take the hal and the Joker, and leave the half when you're clipping bolts.

Re: Beal Joker Trad/Sport

Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:33 pm
by henkg
Just remember to add a Petzl Reverso or similar (for your climbing partner too) to the price. A standard ATC does not give a solid belay on the 9mm.

I love it though!

Re: Beal Joker Trad/Sport

Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:38 pm
by Hann
Jokers are great.
I use mine for both trad and sport. Admittedly less for sport than trad.

It has but 1 negative: It is slightly bulkier and heavier than a 1/2 rope.