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Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:31 am
by Stephen
I've reached the point in my climbing career where my climbing partners are becoming unwilling to lead on my rack. While this is fine for me as I prefer leading anyway, I feel it is unfair to them, and I like sharing the lead sometimes. Some of my gear (friends and cams in particular) is reaching the 15 year-old mark, way beyond the recommended replacement time for slings and quickdraw webbing.

I have thought of simply replacing the exisiting sewn webbing with knotted sling tape (such as the new slinky tubular candyfloss-type), but would prefer stiched versions for better handling and safety. Any ideas if thie knot-method is adequate, and if (k)not, is there anyone who can stitch news sling tape to the specified standard?

Thanks!

Re: Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:16 pm
by Justin
Just sent you a mail (should make your friends happy :)

Re: Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:46 pm
by Warren G
Hi Steven, not sure where abouts in RSA you are but i know Hi Angle on Lansdown road, Rondebosch probably could do it for you safely. they manufacture rated harnesses, slings etc. would think it about R100 a piece. otherwise Scavenger perhaps?

Re: Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:50 pm
by proze
Warren G wrote:about R100 a piece
Yoh! I know it was jsut a guess, but that'd be a little dear, considering you can buy a whole draw with two biners and a sling for R100-ish!

Re: Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:52 pm
by Nic Le Maitre
Hi

The knotted webbing will be fine, just use a tape/water knot (see www.animatedknots.com if you don't know what it is). The knot will weaken the 22kN tape by ~30% to around 15kN which is WAY more than you will ever achieve in a fall even if you take a factor 2 fall.

Otherwise try Dion at HighAngle (http://www.hiangle.com)

Re: Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:57 am
by pierre.joubert
Talk about knotted slings - what about knotting the new skinny dynex/dyneema slings ( < 10mm) with a double fisherman's?
Image
Has anyone done that to re-sling cams? Is the double fisherman's the right knot to use?

Re: Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:06 am
by Stephen
Thanks for all the replies, advice and contacts. I am torn (no pun intended!) between buying the dynema and doing water/tape knots, or having a more professional stiching job done. I will make some enquiries as to the costs and make a choice thereafter...

Re: Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:25 pm
by Old Smelly
Sooo you seriously think that your cams are ok after 15 years & that it is only the webbing that needs replacing? Hmmm :? I dunno. My old BD cams (ladder type) have had to have the trigger wires replaced but I hardly ever fall on them (never, really), so I can carry on using them indefinately, right? Seriously I think one should start considering phasing in a few new pieces every year until your rack is "current".

We all need to be careful we do not end up climbing with ancient gear, as this will ultimately push back your safety margins. Whether old gear is safe is up to you, but new gear comes with guarantees! :thumright

Re: Replacing webbing on camming devices

Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:16 pm
by Nic Le Maitre
pierre.joubert wrote:Has anyone done that to re-sling cams? Is the double fisherman's the right knot to use?
I would go with the the water/tape knot, it's flatter and uses up less of the webbing. It is the standard knot used to join flat webbing as opposed to kernmantel cord which is round.