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What belay device?

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:07 am
by Stu
Ok, my ATC seems to have gone missing and I'm looking for a replacement, and would appreciate any feedback from you guys. It will be used for multi-pitch trad and sport, double rope rapping, etc.
So far I'm looking at the following:

ATC Guide
Petzl Reverso 3

Any other devices I should be looking at? I'm leaning towards the Petzl Reverso 3 at the moment
Would really appreciate any comments as I need to get this today...

Re: What belay device?

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:18 am
by thomsonza
Hey Stu,

I have the Petzl Reverso 3 and a friend has the BD ATC Guide - Both really great devices in my opinion and they both do the same thing. The BD seems to be the cheaper option and there really is not much difference between the 2 of them.

We have used both devices for sport and multipitch and the BD on trad and both performed equally well.

Re: What belay device?

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:35 am
by Nic Le Maitre

Since you can no longer buy a Tre, go for the cheaper of the Reverso3 or the BD guide. Both perform equally awesomly

Re: What belay device?

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:40 am
by lelikegogga
I have a Guide and a Reverso (not the 3)
1. The Guide is heavier than the Reverso
2. One irritating thing I found with the Guide is that when rapping (with 2 ropes), the device goes slightly sideways causing the rope to eat away on the plastic around the cable. Maybe its the biner I use with it (I have tried more than one), but that kinda suck.

Note. If you can get your hands on a Tre. That's the worst belay device ever :thumright
Let me know and I'll gladly take it off your hands.

Re: What belay device?

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:53 am
by Stu
Thanks guys - well in light of what lelikegogga said, I think I'll go with the Reverso 3 then.

Re: What belay device?

Posted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 2:27 pm
by Not
I have a Reverso 3 and love it.

I've belayed with the guide and found the action less smooth. I have noticed that the Reverso 3 does not like thick ropes (which is fine when I'm on my own ropes), meaning I cannot use it on the toprope section at CityRock, I always have to ask them if I can use a loaner ATC.

Re: What belay device?

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:16 pm
by Stefan Smeda
I'm shopping around for a new belay device to be used mainly for trad.
Seeing as the mythical TRE is beyond the reach of mere mortals my shortlist
looks like this:

- Petzl Reverso 3
- BD ATC Guide
- and the wildcard: Mammut Smart Alpine ... -+9.5.html

While the mammut lacks the rope diameter range of the other 2 devices it looks like it has
an interesting action. I'm willing to ignore the rope limitations if the action proves worthwhile
since it will only be used for trad climbing. Has anyone had any experience with this device?


Re: What belay device?

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:24 pm
by joshpickering
I've used the Mammut device once. It's takes some getting used to, but seems like a decent enough device. It does feel a bit flimsy and is quite bulky... you really can't go wrong with an ATC! The auto-locking function on the Mammut does work quite well though. Not sure if you can get it in SA?

Re: What belay device?

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:25 pm
by Hann
I have been using a Reverso 3 lately and find it great.
Granted I use only half ropes with it.
Also, the Gogga has a point. His BD cable isn't so lekker....

Word of caution though:

If you rig these autolock devices for a second climber ensure that the ropes run straight down from the device to the climber.
Should you have a redirect before the belay, or stance horizontally, ie at the end of a travers THE AUTOLOCK WILL FAIL.

Re: What belay device?

Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 10:19 am
by Stefan Smeda
Thanks for the feedback Josh. As far as I know you don't get Mammut gear in SA.
I know someone that can bring me one though. Your reply wasn't exactly the
resounding vote of confidence I was hoping for. Wish there was one I could play
around with to get a feel for the thing. Guess I'll do a bit more research first.