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What quickdraws?

Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:50 pm
by Viruk
Hi, This is the same as the rope post. What does one look for in a quickdraw. There is quite a large price range for quickdraws on MMO, ranging from the Lucky Meteor for R99 to the DMM Eclipse for R184. The only difference I can see between them is that some have nylon slings and others dynax. I am a student so price is nice for me, but I also don't want to die :) In the case of quickdraws can on go for the cheapest or is it worth while spending a bit more for the \"specaial feature\" a more expensive one has?

Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:34 pm
by Mark
I have a \"cheap\" set of quickdraws, it really doesnt make a difference - they are all certified to more or less the same Kilo Newton strength. Mine are made by faders, what I do like is the draws have different colour carabiners on each side this means it is easy to make sure that one side always clips the bolt and the other the rope (the bolt damages the carabiner which can chafe the rope)

Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 6:12 pm
by scottnoy
The new MadRock draws are RAD!!

Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:21 am
by fridge
hmmmmm well

ok When i started off climbing i also faced the same choice that u are facing with the draws but i went and got the draws that were more expensive.

I realized now that it would have been better for me to get the cheaper draws.
i found that the more expensive draws are normally lighter and the cheaper draws are more robust. The expensive draws are more prone to wear and would rather be used by a more experianced climber for whom the extra weight matters.

i recommend trying the following combunation of quick draws from MMO

5 to 7 (depending on the amount of money that u have) of the faders ... ductId=612
(i have used these faders and they work well. I will be getting a cple of these)

5 to 7 (depending on the amount of money that u have) of the lucky's ... ductId=710
(these also work well and are very robust but i prefer wire gates for my rope)

and then one or two of these black diamonds(depending the amount of money) ... ductId=118
(These i use when clipping under a roof or if bolts are placed very zig zaggy to reduce rope drag)

The main thing with climbing gear is if u look after it it will look after u. Personel preference is a big deal because if u are comfortable with the gear that u use u will be more comfortable on the rock and focus on the climb not the gear.

Hope this helps.

The best would be to speak to the local climbers and find out what they recommend.

Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 4:05 pm
by proze
I just got a bunch of Faders Petit Dru from MMO and they're really nice! I love my old DMM double Mambas, but if I was buying now, I can't imagine I'd need anything more expensive than these Faders. My 2c.

Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:11 pm
by micky
check how easily they are to clip, thats important for me which is why i generally prefer wire gates. Also check the size of the gate as smaller ones can cause your fingers to get stuck depending on how you clip.

Weight is another consideration if you gonna do some trad mainly. Also check the thickness of the sling. Altough thin ones look a bit more slick and might be lighter they are horrible to use if you want to pull on the draw for anything like when checking out or working a route. Also check some gates have the rock end clip with out a little hook thing for the gate to clip on. This is pretty cool for cleaning especially on the overhanging stuff.

Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 9:14 pm
by Marshall
IMO...Go cheap & get more. More draws are useful.

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:59 pm
by climbing4heaven
I agree with Marshall. I also prefer the wire gates though :D

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 10:54 pm
by Viruk
Are wire gates as strong as solid ones?

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:35 am
by BAbycoat
Solid gates are arguably stronger than wires. Wire-gates are (again arguably) safer because the gate has less propensity to jam in an open position, and a closed wire gate is stronger than an open solid-gate.

That being said, you'll break your back and your rope (in that order) before you break a biner.

IMHO Faders and/or Lucky will suffice your student days (they worked well for mine ... many are still on my rack). Upgrade when you start earning, or when weight or image become important.

Some pointers:
- Get some (4?) draws with longer dogbones to reduce ropedrag on overhangs or wandering routes. A cheaper alternative to fridge's BD suggestion is to put perfectly good locally made (High Angle) long dogbones onto Faders/Lucky biners - chat to the guys at MMO about this.

- If you have some spare cash, consider getting some keylock biners like the Black Diamond Positron. They make cleaning easier, particularly for awkward/overhanging places (see micky's comment about biners 'without the little hook thing for the gate to clip on'; compare to the Black Diamond QuickSilver if you don't understand).

- I've used the Lucky Meteor and don't like the gate mechanism. My personal preference is for Faders Petit Dru, or a Lucky wiregate.

If you're kitting out, consider some slings - they're always useful. Sewn are nice, but if cost is a concern then get some tape join it with a water knot. If the knot is well set, and you have 1in spare on each end, tape is perfectly safe. 150cm of tape gives you a 120cm sling.

Happy shopping!

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:20 am
by Viruk
Hey guys, thanx for all the help so far!

@BAbycoat - Why do keylock biners make it easier when you are on a overhanging rout?

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:40 am
by proze
On a normal biner, there's a little hook that engages the gate when it's closed, right? That hook can catch on the hanger when you're taking the draw out. Keylock biners don't have that hook so it might be easier to get them off the hanger.

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:08 pm
by JonoJ
Go with Faders - great value for money..... and should really be called Non-Faders......

I've had my set for seven years. Well used and still going strong!

Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 12:45 pm
by BAbycoat
@Proze - exactly.

Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 3:53 pm
by GarethFrost
Try and get QD's that have a broader sling as the narrower versions, like those in Dyneema, tend to spin around while clipping. This is very annoying while tring to make a quick clip.

Wire gates rule, especially in icy conditions as they do not seize up as easily as solid gates when covered in snow.